Krageholm Farm: Part II

Krageholm, Sweden

'So you're basically having a holiday from a holiday' the guy at the hostel in Gothenburg said as I left, when I told him I was off to stay on a farm for a week with some friends. He was not far off.

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My return to Krageholm Farm started with a train inspector telling me I should have bought an extra ticket for my bike, and would now have to pay a fine on top. Fortunately he never bothered to come back to me to do so. Once at Ystad station, Christer kindly picked me up for my second stay with the Pålssons - friends made 30 years ago through a Young Farmers exchange with my Dad.

Krageholm Mansion - right next door

This time things were a lot quieter, with Hedda, Astrid and Frenchman Constant all away in different places, so it was just Christer, Ingeborg and I. And quieter as well in terms if what I've been upto. Sometimes it's good to slow down for a few days when travelling to recharge, catch up on things and plan the next bit.

Because of that I'll spare you the diary this time and pick out a few things. Starting with Ikea - before I left home I found there was an Ikea museum, so the first Saturday Ingeborg drove us up to Almhult - home of Ikea - to have a look around. The museum had typical Ikea living room setups from the 50's to now, and also showed how Ingvar Kamprad went from a boy selling matches to at one point the 4th richest man in the world. Amazing. Naturally this was followed by a trip to the hometown store, and the Ikea restaurant for lunch.

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Christer manages Krageholm which has about 2000 acres of arable crops, forestry, a mansion complete with moat and a few properties. He's kindly taken me out a few times whilst he runs errands in the truck, whilst diverting to see a few local sights on the way. One day we went to a neighbours to drop off some parts, then another estate to see their mansion, straw burning heating system and to meet the owner in the orchard he was establishing. After, a tour of a rapeseed oil factory, a drive through an agricultural college and a walk inside an old windmill. Quite a day.

Another day we went to a free BBQ at a tool hire place, a look round the local builders stores and farm stores, then gave me a walking tour round the outside of Krageholm Mansion, maze, old laundry room and stables. Thanks to the local Swedish newspapers that I was in for the bike ride a few weeks back, three people that day knew who I was before I knew them; it's not often that happens abroad!

Unfortunately I found myself glued to the computer too much for a few days, I say unfortunately as I often get that feeling I should be outside doing something more interesting when I'm in another country. But, it was self enforced as I needed to get a load of things sorted for my trip to Germany, back up and upload photos, update the website etc etc. I also decided to put together a video of my bike ride which you might have seen (YouTube link to the right if not). I quite enjoy a bit of movie production in my spare time you know. It's probably that need to be productive in some way when travelling.

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As the weather's been good, though cooler, I've been out on the bike quite a few days and put in 150 or so miles - you can see the rides in a box to the right side of this page. The area around Ystad is great to cycle with quiet, flat roads and nice scenery, though you do occasionally get caught out when the tarmac road turns to gravel, not so good on a road bike. 

I've enjoyed chatting to Christer over lunch every day - he's the best farmer-cook I know, and usually comes up trumps with simple wholesome food, along with a good story from the papers or farm in his dry humourous manner. Equally Ingeborg is lovely to chat to, and full of tales every evening about the special school where she teaches, family or Sweden in general, and cooks a fine meal.

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The family have a big screen protector and a good movie collection so I've managed most nights to expand my limited movie history a bit - with Apocalypse Now, Forrest Gump, Once Upon a Time in Mexico, The Bourne Supremacy, The Constant Gardener and a bit of James Bond - Dr No.

I've done a few jobs round the house as well - a day of apple picking, a bit of lawnmowing, some cleaning and cutting back some weeds. Not nearly enough to justify everything the Pålssons have done for me, so will just have to reciprocate the fantastic hospitality one day. Thank you C & I!

Photos from my stay at the farm - HERE

And also from my day trip to Norway a few weeks ago - HERE

The Pålsson's have a very British driveway

C&I at home

Goodbye Sweden

Final thoughts on Sweden

And so after two months, I've finally left Sweden. As you might have guessed by my writings, I've been really taken by the country. 

It feels relaxed, comfortable, safe and friendly. Rural folks often don't lock their doors, no-one seems stressed and the only expression other than friendliness I encountered was that which I managed to provoke - with a train inspector, a runner I sped past and a pedestrian. All bike related!

I initially thought Sweden was just known for Volvo, Ikea and Abba but you soon realise there are a lot of famous exports. Scania, Ericsson, Saab (RIP), Electrolux, Tetra Pak, Aga, Koppaburg Cider, Roxette, Swedish House Mafia, Huskevana, the Nobel Peace Prize. The stereotypes all seem to be fairly true. There are a lot of blondes, many beautiful women, Volvos everywhere, and everyone skis.

Then there's their skills with English - they say 89% of Swedes can speak it. Out of the hundreds of people I met, only about five couldn't. And one of those was a 10 year old. It's incredible - partly driven by wanting to get on in the world, and partly because they have so many US/UK films and TV programmes with subtitles. That's been a major reason for liking the country - it just doesn't feel alien like some others. In return, I've learnt about 20 Swedish words, poor effort eh. Interestingly, as a language, it's not actually structured too dissimilar to ours. 

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Having my bike with me has been both a blessing and a curse. Having it provided fun, allowed me to explore places few other travellers would and kept me fit. But, due to stupid rules, to take it on trains around the country, I've had to take it apart, put it in a bike box then re-assemble at the other end every time, which has been a total pain in the bum. But at least I got to cycle in the Arctic Circle.

 Ten random good and bad things about the country:

GOOD
1 - Safe for cycling - cycle paths everywhere, wide quiet roads
2 - Municipal heating - people don't have their own heating in towns, it gets piped from one huge central boiler
3 - Old American cars everywhere
4 - Most houses are red
5 - Lakes
6 - Road changeover - one day in the 70's they went from driving on the left to the right. And no one died.
7 - Low Income- inequality - the gap between rich and poor is relatively small, which leads to happy people and not much crime or poverty
8 - Eco-friendly - half their energy is from renewables
9 - No litter - well very little anyway
10 - Forests

BAD
1 - Having to bring your own bedding to hostels or paying £7 a time to hire. Not seen that before.
2 - SJ trains no bikes policy - stupid for a country proud to be so eco-friendly
3 - SJ trains reservation seat fees - money for old rope
4 - System Bolaget - you can only buy alcohol over 3.5% through a chain of government owned shops in each town with limited hours. Old school.
5 - Costs - fairly expensive country, though nothing on Norway
6 - errr...
7 - ummm..
8 - give up

I've had a brilliant couple of months, and a lot of that is due to the Pålsson family, who I stayed with. Christer provided lots to see and do locally, and Ingeborg arranged for me to stay at her Dad's, her brother's and her son's homes. I've eaten many Swedish dishes, and tried pickled herring, wild boar, elk and roe deer. And I've even learnt how to cook a little better.

So hej då Sweden, you've been great. But guten tag Germany - I've just arrived in rural east Germany to stay on a smallholding doing a work-for-your-bed-and-food type scheme... more on that soon.

Swedecorn - World Premier

The movie you've all been waiting for, the autumn blockbuster, a movie about my bike ride to Sweden from Cornwall. Introducing....

SWEDECORN

(Open in seperate window)

Sweden Photos & Route Map

Krageholm Farm, Sweden

I'm nearing the end of my time in Sweden, and am currently at Krageholm Farm, staying with our family friends again - the Pålsson family. Before heading to Germany on Monday, I've finally put my Sweden photos online - follow link (you don't need a Facebook account to view).

With a bit of time on my hands I've also managed to do a few changes to the blog including adding a nifty little map tool I came across on a website called Travelpoint - see box to the right of this page. It allows you to see where I've travelled so far - zoom in and out, and click place-by-place through the route - open it seperately to make it clearer to see. Far out!

Gothenburg addiction

Gothenburg, Sweden

I've had a big problem with Gothenburg. That problem, is that I've not been able to leave.

Not because of a lack of transport, or even an arrest warrant. I've just been completely taken in by it, I really love the place, and it's rare I say that about cities, they're often a bit samey to me. I planned to stay for a couple of days. A week later and I've finally pulled myself away.

It's been that perfect balance of a great hostel with fun, friendly and beautiful staff, some awesome fellow guests, and a city that's big, but not too big, and full of character with lots to see and do. I've also had way more nights out than I planned but with a good bunch of folks at the hostel, you have to seize these moments as they don't always come too often.

Gothenburg

This week's oddities include getting mistaken for an Aussie by both them and English people. The hostel staff reckoning that I've managed to see more of Gothenburg than most locals - the bike helps there. And a few male guests in awe of my cooking. This is of course very out of character; I hate cooking and am normally pretty shoddy but have picked up some great tips from the Pålssons and Rolanders, so maybe the tide is turning...

As I mentioned last time I had a bit of a problem when I first arrived in the city... The train got in after the hostel had shut, I couldn't get in and at 11pm was homeless with a flat phone battery and no idea what to do. Eventually a guest passed the door, let me in, and with some juice and WiFi I found another hostel... which as it happened was a total blessing in disguise as it made my week what it was.

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Thursday
With no idea what the city had to offer I tagged along with an Aussie girl and Belgium lad I'd met at breakfast, to the nearby park which had a free zoo, then to a contemporary art gallery. Whilst neither were my normal tastes they were enjoyable anyway -and I just fancied spending the day with other backpackers; something I've not done until now.

That night the hostel had organised a night out, starting at 7pm. A group of 15 of us went out and it was a great crack - we ended in a nightclub that had a basketball court instead of a dance floor - all against all chaos. Novel idea.

Friday
After rolling in at 5am, Friday started as slowly as you might expect. I made a call to Volvo. Their factory is on the outskirts of Gothenburg and does free tours - 'our last tour until monday starts in 45 minutes, how far away are you?' she says. 'Errr, about 45 minutes' I said whilst simultaneously running towards my bike...

Breathless, I made it in time and soon forgot about the tiredness once I'd hopped on a little electric train that takes you right through the whole factory for an hour. With 3,300 employees and 600 robots there was a lot going on. Very interesting, and not the last car factory I'll be visiting.

Volvo factory

Saturday
One of the hostel girls warned me it was basically the last day of summer (and was right) so recommended exploring the southern archipelago - a group of islands off the coast nearby. I went with her idea, rode to the port, and visited three of them - Styrsö, Donsö and Vrångö - regular ferries allow you to hop between. They reminded me a bit of the Scillys, and I did a fair bit of walking and exploring.

Nipped out in town that night with some other Aussies, Swedes and English from the hostel. However they were a bit pretentious as was the bar, and with only dull outdoor clothes to wear I felt right out of place. Early night.

Sunday
Think Volvo, think dull boxy 80's cars right? However as I found when I rode out to the Volvo museum, there's a lot more to the company than that. As well as the cars they make lorrys, construction equipment, marine engines and plane engines even. It turns out they did some attractive cars pre 80's, as well as a few right now. Just nasty boxes in between.

Autumn began today for sure, with lots of rain and a big drop in temperature thats here to stay sadly. After 6 weeks of sun I'm not bitter!

Night out #3... started quiet, ended loud on the dancefloor... out with a Chilean, Scot, Swedes and Aussies.

The good time crew

Monday
Went to Maritiman - a floating museum of Swedish boats and ships (I'm still never sure of the difference between them). The guided tour fortunately ended up being just me and the guy, which was excellent and I learnt loads about the two main attractions - a Swedish Navy destroyer and a submarine, both from the 60s.

Tuesday
Cycled out to look round Aeroseum, a Swedish Air Force museum in a former top secret nuclear bunker under an airport, full of military planes and helicopters. Real James Bond stuff. The Highlight was climbing into the cockpit of a Saab Viggen fighter jet - a museum that isn't too proud to stop you getting hands-on.

 Aeroseum, Swedish air force museum

Popped into the Design Museum on the way back which was actually pretty drab on the whole. 

Night out #4 followed with a South African-sounding German, a Kiwi and the funniest and wildest Irishman I've ever met. Sounds like the plot for a comedy show and it was; we quickly reached the level where we could no-barriers rip it out of each other all evening; stomach-achingly funny.

Wednesday
Hiding from rain, doing some research, waiting to meet someone who couldn't come in the end, then a train journey down south. Dull day at the office. Said train is however taking me back to where my tour of this great country began - to stay again with the Pålsson family at Krageholm Farm, so the day can only get better.

The week in Gothenburg has been fantastic, and d'ya know what, there's a good chance I might return sometime. 

On the southern archipelago

Volvo museum

A week in Stockholm

Stockholm, Sweden

This past week I've in Stockholm; capital city of Sweden, and staying with Carl Pålsson. Carl is at University in the south of the city, studying Politics and International Relations, and hoping to work abroad in an embassy. He's living in a nice, but tiny one-bed flat and I've spent the week there on an airbed that filled most of it. Carl is a clever chap, with refined tastes (compared to me anyway) and has a style very much his own. He's therefore a fountain of knowledge, good company and a great cook!

Now for weeks I've been sleeping,  eating and doing stuff at completely different times every day, but this week has seen a return to some sort of routine because I've been staying with someone who lives in the 'real world'. It's basically consisted of getting up at 7ish, breakfast, cycle into Stockholm, look at stuff, cycle home for 8, tea, movie, bed. Like being back at work... or not.

The weather all week has been brilliant - 22º and sunny every day. Having come from Lapland it's nice to come back to summer, even if it is the end if it. In fact I can't remember the last time it did rain...

Thursday 5th
Cruised around on the bike, through the main centre and small parks. Found the bank where the term 'Stockholm Syndrome' was coined after a heist, and went to the Swedish Architectural Museum. Later, Carl turned up and we had a look around Gamla Stan - the medieval-era area of town. Came across an interesting Russian antiques shop and went for a beer in a cool blues bar.

Friday 6th
Museum overload! Went to the Swesish History museum briefly (free but boring), the Swedish sports museum where I was the only visitor, and the science and technology museum. They had an exhibit on the 100 greatest innovations, so I was right at home.

Saturday 7th
Took a leisurely boat cruise up the estuary to Drottingholm Palace, the main residence of the Swedish Royal Family. A grand baroque building; the family live in one half and the other is open to the public. I got told off by museum staff twice in 5 minutes for taking pictures and touching the floor. So hang me!

Sunday 8th
A very relaxing stary to the day gently cruising in the sun around the Woodland Cemetery in the Stockholm suburbs - a very unique UNESCO protected area that is part large landscaped public park, part cemetery and grows by 3,000 headstones a year.

I rode on to the Vasa museum. Back in the 1600s, the Swedish Navy built a boat called the Vasa which was too ambitious in design, and sank within a mile. In the 1960s they found, salvaged and restored it, and it's now in a museum. I believe it's the oldest salvaged ship in the world and quite a sight. 

The vasa

Finished the day by cycling around Djurgarden island, one of the many islands that make up Stockholm, then back to a treat of Wild boar steak (shot at Krageholm), runner beans and roast wedges for tea.

Monday
Cycled to Fotografiska photography gallery for a look at the current exhibitions by Pieter Hugo and Helmet Newton (no I had no idea who they were either), then rode around Haga park - a huge royal park north of the city.

Tuesday
After a late start I cycled the long way into town for a change, too much routine!

Alfred Nobel, the inventor of dynamite was from Stockholm, and left his fortune for the Nobel prize which is held there every year. I went to the Nobel Museum which showcases his life, the prize winners, and and exhibit on the quest for world peace. All very interesting. 

Carl had requested some Cornish Cuisine, so that night I cooked pastys for the second time in my life. A bad workman always blames his tools, and I'm a shoddy chef. With no scales, rolling pin etc they looked terrible, but thankfully tasted fairly good. I miss pastys!

Wednesday
Cycled to the Scania lorry factory south of Stockholm for a look. As expected, huge, and with a free museum on Scanny over the years.

A beautiful city, a fun week. I'd seen all I wanted and felt I should give Carl a bit of space back, so that afternoon I hopped on a train to Gothenburg, which resulted in a pretty crummy ending to the day. I'll leave you hanging on that note...

Early morning Stockholm skyline

Old town

President Obama visits Sweden

Stockholm, Sweden

This is old news really, I'm a week behind but just about worth telling I suppose... seeing that I managed to see President Barack Obama during his visit to Sweden last week!

When I first arrived in the country a few weeks back they announced the big man was paying the country a visit, and I thought what a great experience it would be to see the circus that surrounds him. Luckily everything fell into place on the 4th September.

I arrived in Stockholm at 6.30 am, having taken the sleeper train from far up north. I'd had a good bunch in the sleeper cabin, and got on well with this Swedish chap who was dishing out vodka. Once in Stockholm I took a local train down to my home for a few days - the flat of Carl Pålsson - son of our family friends who I'd stayed with down south. After unpacking my bike and a bit of brecky, I found out the President's rough itinerary and cycled the 11m journey into the city, ready for some President stalking. 

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Near the centre, suddenly there were Police, a lot of Police. The road in front was blocked with cars and concrete barriers, and lined with Police tape and crowds of people. In fact they'd sealed off the whole motorway from the airport, as well as a wide perimeter around the hotel he was staying in, and the government buildings where talks were to be held.

After a while Police helicopters came overhead, and suddenly a huge procession of vehicles arrives. 'There he is' people shout as the big limousine comes past - car actually travels in the hold of the plane with him! I got plenty of photos, but couldn't make him out sadly. Unsatisfied, I nipped off and got some lunch, then found a place by the route to his next meeting. And this time, I saw Barack clearly clear as day.

After a look around the city centre, Carl arrived on the train, and before we went for a pint there was one more opportunity for a glimpse at the Pres. This was hardcore stalking! We were stood in a crowd, and the person by me had the press conference live on his phone which we all watched. It ended, and there was a huge bustle of people leave the foreign office building a few hundred metres in front. My camera caught Barack, but my eyes just saw a blur. The same view as most people I expect.

Kiruna: Space, Ice and Ore

Kiruna, Lapland, Sweden

Much as I tried to fight it, Sunday was a write off. A 12pm train to Kiruna, then a 4pm hostel open time meant I couldn't do a lot. Kiruna being a grotty mining town didn't inspire either. The reason it's grotty though is that they're going to knock the whole town down soon - the whole place is slowly subsiding because the mine goes underneath it - and rebuild a couple of miles away!

Monday however was a lot more productive (can/should travelling be productive?!) as I set out on the bike (route). First stop, Ice Hotel - a unique and famous hotel made completely of ice, beds 'n all. The irony is that with it being summer there was nothing to see but a big patch of gravel where it had melted into the river, and the factory where they were creating next years version. 

Next stop, Esrange Space Centre. Located a long long way from the rest of Europe, the European Space Agency send rockets and science balloons up from Esrange, though there's no launches for a few weeks. The site was 15 miles down a dead end road, and the address not published (though easily Googled), and once at the gates that's it, no entry to the public. All you could see was a rocket on display, and a view down into the valley of all sorts of odd looking buildings needed for space launches. A tiny bit exciting nonetheless and like a James Bond set. 

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Back in Kiruna that afternoon, I did the only thing the town has to offer - a trip down the iron ore mine - the biggest in Europe and completely underground. Now, when the bus got to the entrance, I thought we were going to get off and get in a lift. Instead, we drove to a tunnel and immediately started going down and down a steep hill right into the mountain; proper exciting. The driver wasn't hanging around either; there was even a speed camera that told us that. Next thing we know his wingmirror hits the side of the tunnel, then swings round and bang, shatters the bus window! Only added to the drama. We eventually descended nearly half a vertical mile to the exhibition area in a disused tunnel, though the working mine is nearly a mile underground. This bit was interesting enough, but a bit sterile and regimented. I wanted to see trucks and explosions not corporate propaganda videos and old pickaxes. Ah well, health and safety wins again.

The mine for many years has been the backbone of the Swedish economy and is sensibly owned by the government (unlike the UK where every other country owns our resources!), and supplied the steel mill I visited last week, so I've now seen the full chain of steelmaking. Dull to most, but having worked a lot with the stuff - fascinating to me.

Today is a bit of a come down in comparison - taking the train south to the city of Luleå, leaving the arctic circle on the way. Whilst I seem to be getting more able to plan, find things and overcome problems as I travel, unfortunately I'm still leaving some things to the last minute such as booking accommodation. Consequently I got to Luleå to find all four hostels fully booked with students, who have started term and yet to get houses. New challenge - learn to stop procrastinating! 

Anyways, I've skipped the town and hopped on another 14 hour sleeper train, down to the capital - Stockholm. And just as I arrive, so will a certain US President. Could be an interesting couple of days!

Outdoors at Obisko

Abisko, Sweden

It's funny how you give up on an idea sometimes, or shrug off a thought, just not expecting it to happen. The Northern lights were such an example, just one of a few surprises this past few days. Santa, reindeer and Norway were the others!

I'm now in Obisko, a national park in Lapland, as far north as you can go in Sweden, and over a hundred miles within the Arctic Circle! Despite this, there's only snow on the mountain tops and it's been up to 13ºC in the daytime. That said in the shadows and at night it can get pretty cold. Autumn comes early here, and the leaves have already started changing colour which only makes the area even more beautiful than it already is.

I arrived on Thursday on a sleeper train from down south - a 16.5 hr journey, which wasn't nearly as bad as it sounds. With half the day gone I looked in the visitors centre, then on a whim did a 5 mile walk up and back to some waterfalls. Having nothing with me I ended up drinking head-first out of the river - its pure enough!

Being off-season, there's only been one other person in the hostel each night. The first was a slightly mysterious old guy with a big grey beard. Being in Lapland, it's obvious who this was on his holidays... He called himself Markku, (obviously to avoid detection) and was from Finland, riding his motorbike around Scandinavia. To top off my theory, as he left he said 'I have my beard, you have your hair' and gave me a new comb as a present. Ha! Suprise #1. There was a German guy the next night, who had been hiking with a mate who's spending 3 months walking up through Scandinavia, mad! And last night a Swiss guy - where's the girls?!

The next day I went on a 15 mile hike, my longest ever. I'm not big into hiking normally - too slow paced compared to biking, but couldn't miss this. I went up between the mountains to a lake, crossing all sorts of terrain. It was that remote that I only passed other walkers in the last couple of miles. The best bit was encountering many reindeer, high up in the hills. Must have seen about 10 groups of them, all quite nervous and easily spooked. They're all owned by local native people, and were migrating back down the the valleys for winter. Suprise #2.

I understood I was too early in the season to see the Northern Lights, but the hostel owner told me otherwise, so despite being knackered I stayed up late hoping to see them. I went up away from streetlights to a helipad and waited, and just as I got too cold and gave up, I started seeing a bit of green in the sky. Didn't amount to much so ended up going to bed. At 1am, just before I did though, I took one last look out the window, only to see the skies starting to light up so rushed outside, yes! It was amazing, truly amazing. Hard to describe, but a bit like fireworks that don't fall, that can glimmer, grow, and move around. A memory for life and surprise #3.

Saturday started off with some planning, trying to work out whether to travel a bit of Norway as I was so close. In the end I decided it was too expensive on a backpacking trip, so decided to cycle to Norway and back for the day to the town of Narvik. The scenery through Sweden was nice, but the moment I crossed the border it got even better. Each corner I turned opened up a new vista, all of which were just stunning- snow capped mountains, lakes and painted holiday huts. But what with setting off too late at midday, and with 108 miles round trip to cycle, I didn't have long to stay there. They were the first proper hills I'd ridden since England, and consequently I'm aching all over today! Never planned to go to Norway, so suprise #4!