Munich: cars, castles and camps

Munich, Germany

When planning this trip, I was thinking about the sort of things I'd like to see and do, and for some reason more than any other place, these things seemed to revolve around Munich. Unfortunately for you that means an extra long blog! It's an interesting city in many ways - close to the alps, a bit of a hub of German engineering, hosts the biggest beer festival in the world, and on a more grim note - is the birthplace of the Nazi movement.

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The first night I arrived I got chatting in the kitchen to an English guy called Darren who's working in Munich; Really interesting guy and we got on really well throughout the week.The kitchen seemed to be the place to socialise. I often had breakfast the same time as either some Aussie girls or an American girl and her Dad, met loads of English and Italians who were there for work, and one night, a group of four Russian guys. We got chatting, and they said they said they were on holiday for a week or so around Europe, and had spent nearly the same amount of dosh in that time boozing it up, as I'd spent on my whole trip so far! Naturally they had vodka and offered me shot - I obliged despite it being 6pm, followed by a pancake they'd just cooked, filled with Russian caviar. Living the life eh!

The first full day in Munich, I had quite a bit to sort out - boring stuff, like banking, emails, planning, booking, finding flights etc etc - and decided to write the day off to get stuff sorted in one hit. After lunch I nipped out and get my first haircut in a while which was interesting in itself - the guy didn't speak as good English as I initially believed, so I was given some hairstyle picture books and had to pick out the one I wanted - a bit like buying a haircut from a catalogue. The upside after was that because of the language issues there was no boring small talk at all!

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DJ Shadow

How's this for a lucky chance:
At 8pm that night, I  Googled 'gigs in Munich this week'.
At 9pm that night, I was at a gig watching DJ Shadow!

Shadow is a very innovative and skilled US record producer and DJ who you've probably never heard of but whom I've been a fan of for years, and was doing a DJ set at a club just down the road. I went along on the off chance they had tickets available, only to find they did, and spent the next couple of hours watching him flick between hip hop, soul, funk and dance music in a way I've never seen before.

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The next day I headed into the city to the city museum. I had no interest in a lot of it, but because I paid I looked anyway - but finished with the bit that I went for - a section on Munich's role in the Nazi era. Basically Hitler rose to power in Munich - it was both the birthplace and capital of the Nazi movement. I didn't learn about WWII at school so my knowledge is really patchy, but I'm quite interested and want to learn more, and where better than Germany. The nation is completely ashamed with it's past, but has moved forward whilst being quite open about what happened.  The museum showed this era in detail, with many original documents, propaganda posters and pieces of Nazi memorabilia. There was little gore in the exhibition, but I felt pretty uncomfortable by the end of it.

Having heard many good things about Couchsurfing recently, I became a member of the website, which allows you to arrange to stay with locals in different cities in exchange for people staying with you one day. I've had no luck at all with finding hosts so far, but I saw there was a social meet up for travellers and hosts arranged in Munich that evening, so thought I'd go along and see what it was all about. Most people hadn't met before so there were no social barriers, and it was quite a fun night - just a couple of beers in a nearby bar, chatting to some French, Czech and Polish people.

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I seem to have been to quite a few museums on this trip, which admittedly sounds a bit dull but they've all generally been good in different ways. Wednesday was one of the best - a trip to the Deutsches Museum - the biggest museum of technology and science in the world - it was quite incredible, and I learnt tons. And so huge I only saw maybe a quarter of it in a whole day - mostly on engineering machinery, metals, photography, green energy and space travel. Every day's a schoolday on this trip.

BMW Factory & museum

Thursday was BMW day. Munich is it's founding place, and home of it's main factory. I started off in BMW Welt (world), which is a showcase of everything about the company in a stunning building. I then went across the road to look around the rather large and impressive BMW museum, and finished up on a factory tour. As a car lover it seems I'm on a bit of a car pilgrimage on this trip - this was now my fourth car factory tour, and I must say probably the best. It was very professional, walking on overhead gantries around the plant, and unlike the other factories, they let you see right inside the sprayshop whilst robots apply the five layers of paint.

Dachau former concentration camp

Munich was not only the home to the Nazi movement, but also where their first concentration camp - Dachau - was established, which became the brutal model for many others around Europe. I decided to do one of the guided tours, which was a good idea as the guide gave a very good insight into just how bad it was, going round a replica of the dormitories, the crematorium and the prison. The camp in a nutshell, was a place that the Nazi's collected anyone who wasn't part of their plan, treated them appallingly, and worked them to death making things to further their war effort whilst lining their pockets. The camp was eye opening, slightly disturbing, and left me wondering how people could possibly have behaved like that to other humans.

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Neuschwanstein Castle

Germany had another crazy leader in the 19th century - Ludwig II - but thankfully this one was harmless; spending his time building wacky castles instead of murdering people, so on Saturday I took the train south to Neuschwanstein Castle in the foothills of the Alps to see one of them. The train journey was very nice with a great view of the mountains along the skyline, but because of it's popularity the castle was absolutely packed with tourists, and all you can get is a forty-five minute rushed tour late in the afternoon. After a stroll around a lake, both waiting for the tour and escaping the thousands of tourists, I wandered up to a viewing point of the castle, and as I rounded the corner it was one of those moments that just hits you; absolutely spectacular. Inside it was just as grand, but unfortunately for old Ludwig, seventeen years into building the place he was sectioned, then died before it was finished.

On my final day in Munich, I decided to hire a bike to explore a bit. I cruised round the Oktoberfest site which they were dismantling, stopped at the Deutches transport museum for a couple of hours, went to the Olympic park from 1972, and finished at the English Garden - a large and very beautiful city park. Autumn is in full swing here, and with leaves falling everywhere the park was beautiful. It seemed like everyone was out walking round - I've never seen a park so busy, and one of the busiest and most exciting points was on a fast flowing river where people were actually surfing. Very unique.

Munich was everything I expected it to be and more. Next: Prague, Czech Republic.

Porsche and Pilsner

Stuttgart, Germany

Second biggest isn't always second best. A month ago I was in a bar in Gothenburg, talking to a German guy about Oktoberfest - the world's biggest beer festival in Munich. 'Too touristy, too busy, too expensive - go to Stuttgart instead - the second biggest, but much better' he said. Locals know best (usually), so the next day it was booked, and here I am at Cannstatter Volksfest.

Meeting the locals at Cannstatter Volksfest

As well as the festival - one of the big draws to Germany for me was to see some of the pinnacles of design and engineering, and Stuttgart is the home town to both Porsche and Mercedes - certainly not second best in their case. 

Mercesdes

At lunchtime on Tuesday I rolled into town, and with time a bit tight - I could only get a bed for three nights because of the festival - I thought I'd better hot step it to the Mercedes Museum. Bit of a mistake it turned out as two hours there wasn't nearly enough and I ended up rushing too much. It was a very good museum though, in a stunning building, and especially interesting as Carl Benz is generally known as the inventor of the car, kind of making this the birthplace of modern transport.

That night in the hostel, I managed to find myself some company ready for the 'Cannstatter Festival' (as it's known) in an Argentinan guy called Rogelio, then along with some Irish and Aussies, ended up talking in lounge til the early hours. Fascinating. 

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Mid-afternoon the next day, after a bit of a look around town, Rogelio and I went to the festival site on the edge of town. And man, it was huge. A large fairground and German food stalls, surround nine huge marquees in the middle. You pick a tent, find a place on one of the long tables, and from then on you're served promptly by waitresses in their traditional German dress. Funnily enough though, rather than a huge selection of beers to try, each tent only serves one type, and they come only in one litre glasses! There's no wimping out, whatever your age or sex - it was funny to see eighteen year old girls grasping these huge glasses with both hands.

Over the day, as well as going to a beer tent or two, I ate a half metre long hot dog, tried some pretzels, got told off by the Police for taking a photo of them, then told to delete it, and wandered around the fairground. It turns out oddly they don't really have fairgrounds in Argentina, so Rogelio persuaded me to join him on one of those rides that spin you and turn you upside down at the same time on a huge arm... brilliant, and I even managed to keep my pretzels down. 

Back in another marquee, there was always a band playing, mostly cheesey German music, with the odd burst of Sweet Caroline, Rocking All Over The World or Que Sera, Sera (Whatever Will Be, Will Be). There was lots of lederhosen and dresses, boiled bratwurst sausages in bowls, people smoking indoors, cooked chickens on spits, and loads of cheers moments when a little ditty was played. As the evening went on we first hung out with some Dutch girls, then joined some young Germans who were great fun, spending most of it stood up on the benches like everyone else. A fantastic day, something I'd wanted to experience for a long time.  

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Thursday started a bit slowly; I have no idea why?! Around noon though, I was on the outskirts of the city at the Porsche Factory and Museum complex. Like Merc, the building itself is a real architectural wonder, and I couldn't work out how it didn't collapse with all it's angular overhangs. I enjoyed the exhibitions, especially one where they'd chopped a 911 in half with a laser cutter, so you could see a complete section through; just like a knife through an onion. I tried to get a factory tour, but the two month waiting list put paid to that, so just wondered along the front of it for a nose instead.

Friday was frustrating, spending a lot of time trying to work out where to go next, as info, beds and trains seemed to be in short supply. But this was broken by a tour around the Mercedes engine factory nearby which I'd booked a few days before. I'll spare you the technical details, but it was pretty fascinating to see the full process of V6 and V8 engine assembly, and was extremely automated - even more than I expected. Mr Farley - you'd be in heaven there.

A brilliant few days in Stuttgart, but a bit of countryside is needed to break up the grey, so to the Black Forest it is.

Gothenburg addiction

Gothenburg, Sweden

I've had a big problem with Gothenburg. That problem, is that I've not been able to leave.

Not because of a lack of transport, or even an arrest warrant. I've just been completely taken in by it, I really love the place, and it's rare I say that about cities, they're often a bit samey to me. I planned to stay for a couple of days. A week later and I've finally pulled myself away.

It's been that perfect balance of a great hostel with fun, friendly and beautiful staff, some awesome fellow guests, and a city that's big, but not too big, and full of character with lots to see and do. I've also had way more nights out than I planned but with a good bunch of folks at the hostel, you have to seize these moments as they don't always come too often.

Gothenburg

This week's oddities include getting mistaken for an Aussie by both them and English people. The hostel staff reckoning that I've managed to see more of Gothenburg than most locals - the bike helps there. And a few male guests in awe of my cooking. This is of course very out of character; I hate cooking and am normally pretty shoddy but have picked up some great tips from the Pålssons and Rolanders, so maybe the tide is turning...

As I mentioned last time I had a bit of a problem when I first arrived in the city... The train got in after the hostel had shut, I couldn't get in and at 11pm was homeless with a flat phone battery and no idea what to do. Eventually a guest passed the door, let me in, and with some juice and WiFi I found another hostel... which as it happened was a total blessing in disguise as it made my week what it was.

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Thursday
With no idea what the city had to offer I tagged along with an Aussie girl and Belgium lad I'd met at breakfast, to the nearby park which had a free zoo, then to a contemporary art gallery. Whilst neither were my normal tastes they were enjoyable anyway -and I just fancied spending the day with other backpackers; something I've not done until now.

That night the hostel had organised a night out, starting at 7pm. A group of 15 of us went out and it was a great crack - we ended in a nightclub that had a basketball court instead of a dance floor - all against all chaos. Novel idea.

Friday
After rolling in at 5am, Friday started as slowly as you might expect. I made a call to Volvo. Their factory is on the outskirts of Gothenburg and does free tours - 'our last tour until monday starts in 45 minutes, how far away are you?' she says. 'Errr, about 45 minutes' I said whilst simultaneously running towards my bike...

Breathless, I made it in time and soon forgot about the tiredness once I'd hopped on a little electric train that takes you right through the whole factory for an hour. With 3,300 employees and 600 robots there was a lot going on. Very interesting, and not the last car factory I'll be visiting.

Volvo factory

Saturday
One of the hostel girls warned me it was basically the last day of summer (and was right) so recommended exploring the southern archipelago - a group of islands off the coast nearby. I went with her idea, rode to the port, and visited three of them - Styrsö, Donsö and Vrångö - regular ferries allow you to hop between. They reminded me a bit of the Scillys, and I did a fair bit of walking and exploring.

Nipped out in town that night with some other Aussies, Swedes and English from the hostel. However they were a bit pretentious as was the bar, and with only dull outdoor clothes to wear I felt right out of place. Early night.

Sunday
Think Volvo, think dull boxy 80's cars right? However as I found when I rode out to the Volvo museum, there's a lot more to the company than that. As well as the cars they make lorrys, construction equipment, marine engines and plane engines even. It turns out they did some attractive cars pre 80's, as well as a few right now. Just nasty boxes in between.

Autumn began today for sure, with lots of rain and a big drop in temperature thats here to stay sadly. After 6 weeks of sun I'm not bitter!

Night out #3... started quiet, ended loud on the dancefloor... out with a Chilean, Scot, Swedes and Aussies.

The good time crew

Monday
Went to Maritiman - a floating museum of Swedish boats and ships (I'm still never sure of the difference between them). The guided tour fortunately ended up being just me and the guy, which was excellent and I learnt loads about the two main attractions - a Swedish Navy destroyer and a submarine, both from the 60s.

Tuesday
Cycled out to look round Aeroseum, a Swedish Air Force museum in a former top secret nuclear bunker under an airport, full of military planes and helicopters. Real James Bond stuff. The Highlight was climbing into the cockpit of a Saab Viggen fighter jet - a museum that isn't too proud to stop you getting hands-on.

 Aeroseum, Swedish air force museum

Popped into the Design Museum on the way back which was actually pretty drab on the whole. 

Night out #4 followed with a South African-sounding German, a Kiwi and the funniest and wildest Irishman I've ever met. Sounds like the plot for a comedy show and it was; we quickly reached the level where we could no-barriers rip it out of each other all evening; stomach-achingly funny.

Wednesday
Hiding from rain, doing some research, waiting to meet someone who couldn't come in the end, then a train journey down south. Dull day at the office. Said train is however taking me back to where my tour of this great country began - to stay again with the Pålsson family at Krageholm Farm, so the day can only get better.

The week in Gothenburg has been fantastic, and d'ya know what, there's a good chance I might return sometime. 

On the southern archipelago

Volvo museum

Old steel / new steel

Falun, Sweden with the Rolander family

This update comes to you from a hammock, on a warm summer's afternoon, in a garden in the forested Swedish countryside. Sorry to brag, just setting the scene! It's been sunny and about 19º all week, so pretty ideal really.

With the Rolanders, the unwritten agreement is that I do a few hours work each day in return for bed and food. Therefore this week has been the closest to real life of my trip - a mixture of doing odd jobs in the house and workshop, cycling every day and chatting. 

Mon
Nic and Maria were out for a while so I found myself babysitting, or more specifically, sitting in the garden reading. I then went on a road ride, which after a short while turned into an off-road ride - rural roads are often not tarmacked in Sweden which isn't good at all on a lightweight road bike with hard skinny tyres and no grip, but no harm done thankfully. 

Astrid (Nic and Maria's niece) and Winnie (their daughter) then took me a couple of miles up a track into the forest to swim in the local lake. Bit murky but not too cold, with completely idyllic scenery.

After tea, Nic and Maria and I spent hours talking about their businesses, the world, travelling, technology, design and nearly everything else. Can't beat a good yarn.

Tues
Took down some old florescent lights then refitted with Nic them in his workshop. In the afternoon I cycled round Runn lake, the second biggest in the region. The scenery was absolutely stunning - both the lake and the small villages around it. One of the nicest rides I've ever done; I got drunk on my own excitement alone that day!

Weds
Started with old steel; working on Nic's old Range Rover, grinding off rust and stripping down parts.

Then later it was all about new steel. At the crayfish party last week I met a guy called Stefan who is a manager at the Swedish Steel mill nearby in Borlange. As I've worked with sheet metal for a few years, in the week I had a thought - I wonder if I could get a tour? Nic made the call for me, and so on Wednesday, I found myself in a enormous factory complex, being taken on a two-hour, one-on-one tour of SSAB steel, producers of some of the highest grade steel in the world.

They basically take 30 tonne blocks of steel that arrive by train, and process them into rolls of thin high grade sheet. Five kg of every Ferrari, Mercedes and Volkswagen body comes out of their factory. Needless to say I was fascinated and felt pretty lucky to have visited. When I thanked him for his time, Stefan said 'that's fine, you're a potential customer'! 

Thurs
Another day working on the Range Rover, grinding, painting and replacing parts. De-stressed afterwards (joke) with a fast 13 mile ride down to nearby Falun town and back. Admired the huge local ski jump setup as I went, passing other locals out training on rollerblades with ski poles - their training for cross country skiing. 

Fri
Nic and Maria had both suggested cycling around Siljan; the biggest lake in the area (of which you may have gathered, there are many), so I took a bus to Rättvik and went for it. Most of what I saw was actually forest, but sometimes glimpses of something - the lake - is more exciting than seeing the same sight all day. 

Sat
Just like a normal Saturday at home. Trip into Falun town to run errands, mow the lawn, do washing, set up a projector for Winnie's birthday party later, fix various bikes, read in the garden.

I've really enjoyed my week here, seeing typical Swedish family life and doing normal sorts of things, just in a different place. The Rolander family have been great fun, thanks for your hospitality guys! Heading north tomorrow. 

Siljan Lake

Cornwall to Sweden - day 12

Bremen, Germany to Hamburg, Germany

Some days things just work out.

Shorter route yesterday, so I googled Bremen to see if there was anything worth seeing. Turns out Mercedes had one of their big car plants there, but there didn't appear to be any factory tours. Oh well. I set out on my day and thought I'd just ride past to see how big the place was. Came across the factory reception and thought no harm in asking, and it turned out there was a free two-hour tour 10 minutes later! 

Only trouble was it was all in German! I can't quite describe how big and impressive this plant was though. It had it's own road and bus network, a test track which every new car goes round, many huge assembly halls and more robots than you could ever count, picking up and welding parts. Photography was banned, but I couldn't help myself and assumed the role of corporate spy, using my little GoPro camera in the palm of my hand (and didn't get caught).

This however left me short on time for cycling, so had to bomb it to Hamburg to get to the hostel in time. Same scenery as the day before really, very pleasant and flat, ended up doing 81m. Also cycled past the Airbus plane factory, and the Becks brewery; the things that excite me eh!

Today's route