Showing posts with label hiking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hiking. Show all posts

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Glaciation

Mestia, Georgia (map)

In this blog: travel nightmares, a walk to the hills, an adventure to a glacier, and a strange hilltop festival



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Walking in the cross above Mestia
9th to 12th century defensive towers in Mestia town

It was a terrifying journey but thankfully the last of it's kind I'd encounter on this trip, as the driver of the share taxi went flat out along the main two-lane road across Georgia, despite driving a right-hand drive car on the right side of the road, making overtaking pretty difficult and dangerous. A car had gone into the back of an artic truck and another car into that back of the first, so we slowed to a crawl and passed around it before getting back to full speed again, our driver unshaken by the sight of mangled metal. I smiled again when we passed an abandoned petrol station full of cows, stood motionless as if queuing up for fuel. The air-con was broken and the journey sweaty, so it was with relief when we reached the city of Kutaisi. I'd planned to stay there a day, but spotting that it was a bit of a concrete mess I changed my plans instantly, deciding to head to the mountains again instead. Whilst the roads have been pretty bumpy and the driving too fast, Georgia has probably been the easiest country on my trip to get around as minibuses run everywhere, all the time, and finding a minibus on to the town of Zugdidi was no exception.



Zugdidi
Getting there late afternoon, things got a little less straightforward. Stupidly, I decided to walk the mile or so to the hostel in my guidebook which it transpired no longer existed, but discovered only after a lot of walking around the suburbs in 32 degree humid heat, knocking on wrong doors and asking people in the street. After an hour of this I was pretty peeved so flagged down a taxi. The driver didn't have a clue what I was on about but drove me to the centre anyway, then let me use his phone and kindly refused to take any money for the journey. I changed plans and wandered to the train station where I hoped I might get a bus onto the town of Mestia, and a minibus driver who spoke no English first shook his head to indicate no, he wasn't going there, then a few minutes later changed his mind and waved me on-board. We slowly drove around nearby small streets for a while whilst he dropped off things, spoke to people and joked around, before ten minutes later dropping me off just around the corner. We were supposed to have driver for three hours so I now had no idea what was going on, before he pointed to his mate outside the van and said 'guesthouse' before asking for £2 fare - enough for a 3 hours journey here normally. It was obvious he was a chancer so I shook my head and walked off annoyed. It was also now obvious I would have to stay in Zugdidi for the night, with no other options for guest houses around I reluctantly took a look at his mate's place. Walking into what looked like an empty monastery complex, then passing a lone chicken stood half way up the stairs, it turned out to be less of a guesthouse and more just a house with a spare room, but tired and with few other options it would have to do, even if it was a bit weird.

I spent what was left of the sunny evening wandering around a nice park, past a castle, then through the large, grassy town square where I ate and wrote for a while. Even by night Zugdidi was still humid and sweaty, and with no fan available I had to leave the bedroom window wide open to avoid drowning in my own sweat, whilst oddly this guy and his brother sat outside on the balcony chatting then watching TV with the lights off 'til gone 3am. The bed springs were so knackered that when I sat on the mattress, it seemed to almost touch the floor, and the bedroom door had neither a handle or a lock either, so I leant a jam jar against it to wake me if someone entered. I had a terrible nights sleep as you might expect.

At 7am the next day I hopped on a minibus and got out of there, heading into the Caucasus mountains again, this time in the west of Georgia in the area known as Svaneti. The scenery was beautiful as we climbed a windy road into the hills whilst following a wild, glacier-fed river below. We stopped at a cafe halfway where with no breakfast available we had to make do with an ice cream, whilst some of the Georgian passengers had a beer... at 10am. I got chatting to David and Claire - an English couple on the bus who were heading the same way, and decided to go to the same homestay as them when we reached Mestia since it sounded good. The owner, a lovely lady in her fifties called Roza was as kind, friendly and helpful as you could ever expect, one of those rare people where nothing whatsoever is too much trouble.

Mestia
David and Claire were both very pleasant and chatty, a Lawyer and a speech therapist, and on their invitation I decided to join them for the day. Whilst I've met a few other English people on this trip it was strange to spend such a long time with my natives, and since the trip was almost over, almost a re-acquaintance with the world I know as they talked of home. We went for a lazy lunch in the main square of Mestia, a nice grassy area full of trees. The town centre was surrounded by buildings that the government had recently put up in an attempt to turn Mestia into a holiday hub for the country, a noble gesture except it now looked like a naff version of an alpine ski resort - not the first time I'd seen poor new development in Georgia. We decided to go on a half day walk up to a cross that we could see high on the hills above, a lovely jaunt through the town then up through steep woods, passing grazing cows, and picking wild strawberries from beside the path. The views at the top were tremendous, a full 360 degree panorama of snow capped mountains, all of them higher than anything in the Alps and I'm fairly sure I spotted Mt Elbrus - the highest mountain in Europe which stood just over the border in Russia. I sat down in the afternoon sun for a rest whilst they made their way back down, and to my surprise fell asleep for 45 minutes - I blame the night before!

That night Claire and David introduced me to Giovanni and Alesandra; an Italian couple who they'd met elsewhere the day before. They were so smiley and so Italian, with their long hair and stylish clothes, and turned out to be an actor and director respectively - he's starred in movies, on stage and in TV series including BBC's 'Rome', broadcast a few years ago - you can see his IMDB profile here. Despite success, they were  very modest people; friendly and curious and only talking about their fascinating lives when we asked. It was only mildly surprising then that despite having homes in Sicily, Rome and Milan, they were travelling around Georgia on public transport and that their car at home was a Fiat. We had a couple of beers sat outside a terrace bar in town, before walking a mile or so to a restaurant they'd been recommended where we were given menus and took our seats, carefully picking what we wanted and ordering. The waitress first came back to say certain items weren't available then after all this, ten minutes later she returned again saying 'sorry, the kitchen is actually shut'. How would you not realise your own kitchen is shut?!

To the glacier
The next morning I was invited to join the guys on a horse ride to the foot of a nearby glacier. I hate horses so thought about it for about a second before deciding to hire an iron horse instead -  a mountain bike. Unfortunately though, after an hour of walking around the town I found that the only two places that supposedly hired bikes no longer did. As a second-best, despite being a little stiff from the previous days walking I decided to head out on foot for the day anyway, heading to Chalaadi Glacier. I could only get hold of a large scale map which told me almost nothing, but had a rough idea where to go so took a chance - how could you possibly miss a glacier I thought?

Unfortunately, the answer was quite easily. Early on I took a path on the left side of the valley - the side the glacier was on -  when in fact I should have walked on the right and herein in things got extremely tricky because of it, the five or six hour walk turning into eight and a half. For the first two or three miles things were straightforward, just a nice flat gravel road. The path then narrowed considerably and I had the choice of heading uphill or into the grounds of a seemingly abandoned house. The uphill route led nowhere so I started heading for the house before I heard a bark and a large vicious-looking brown dog starting to move towards me, collarless and owner-less, and seemingly protecting a herd of nearby cows, before a few moments later an Alsatian-type dog appeared in the background, also barking. I'd read that most dogs in the mountains were trained to kill wolves, and with no owners around I don't mind admitting I was a little scared at that moment, on my own with nothing but a rock in my hand. 

Fortunately, walking away seemed to do the trick but left me with no clear onwards route. I went into a field, rock hopped across a stream, got lost in some meadows nearby for twenty minutes before scrambling down a bank to the original path I'd come on where I branched off to walk along the riverbank. I considered turning back but felt disheartened by the thought of coming all that way for nothing so continued. The path was merely a cow track and started getting worse, sometimes turning into a bog, and sometimes disappeared meaning I had to beat my own way through the bushes. After another hour, to my relief a clear path appeared when I reached a forest, along with litter on the ground telling me people had been there, so I guessed it may head towards the glacier. Eventually though it faded to nothing and I felt proper stuck. The forest had little undergrowth so I decided to make my own path and followed the contour around, eventually spotted a couple of tourist vans parked on the other side of the valley. The white-water river was way too big and fast to wade across so I headed up the valley my own way, walking over piles and piles of rocks left there by the glacier before it retreated years before. Walking was tough going as I clambered over rocks and pushed small trees out the way, but eventually to my relief the glacier came into view and despite going the wrong way initially, my navigating thereafter had led me to the right place. It was well worth all the effort - the sight of the huge snaking mass of ice looked stunning. The final section involved walking through long grass with jagged rocks underneath, followed by clambering across and down a steep scree slope neither of which were easy, but I eventually made it to the underground river which flowed out from underneath the bottom end of the glacier itself.


Sight of the glacier after a very long walk

I was still on the wrong side of the valley though, so carefully made my way up one side of it, and a hundred metres behind its crumbling ice and rock edge, crossed quickly over and down the other side before breathing a sigh of relief. After a wooded descent, most of the walk back was on a flat dirt road which was a pleasure after the journey I'd taken there, and just before dusk I made it back to Mestia, even turning down a lift from a local along the way (I couldn't cheat could I). Totally knackered, I opted to have dinner at the guesthouse where I sat with two Spanish 'alpinists' as they call themselves who I'd been sharing a room with and soon learnt my exploits were nothing compared to their stories of climbing cliffs without ropes and sleeping the night in a tent on the glacier. One of them had even attempted to climb K2 before - the second highest mountain in the world, so they were pretty experienced and full of fascinating tales.

The following day I'd planned to take it easy, which was just as well the way my legs were feeling. David and Claire were doing the same, so a morning of reading in the lovely garden followed a long lazy breakfast chatting with them. It was great to just kick back with no plans or expectations for the day, the first one I'd had in ages in fact and the day soon disappeared in a daze of music, reading, eating and napping.

Hill Festival
The end of my whole trip was nigh and I now had just one full day left in Mestia. It was a slightly strange feeling to know that the lifestyle I'd become so accustomed to over the past year was soon due to come to an end, but just like a man with a comb over, I was still in denial so postponed any thoughts and replaced them with another trip out. Over the previous day I'd met three girls in the guesthouse who were travelling together; Fiona, Natalie and Benedicte - Australian, German, and French - a combination of nationalities so ripe you might think a joke might be coming, but sorry, I can't think of one. This trio had been talking about visiting a traditional music festival a few miles away they'd heard about, an annual event which we could get no further information on other than it's location. I love a good festival and we were all curious about what it might entail, so I decided to join them for the day to see.

Our fine host Roza had booked space in a minibus for us and we headed off at 9am that day, the bus climbing from one mountainous valley to the next and the nice concrete road soon turning into a potholed gravel mess, whilst the driver's son drove us all mad by constantly skipping from one song to the next on the stereo. We'd only travelled thirty miles, but it took a pretty bouncy and uncomfortable two hours to reach the tiny hamlet of Kala. The four of us all had visions in mind of reaching a field full of stalls, stages, musicians, local food, and entertainers, but what we found could not be much different.

Heaps of cars and jeeps were parked up along the track for quite some way, and people were making their way up a steep path through the woods to a small church, set on top of a hill high above us. We were both bemused and confused following the crowd up the slippery and awkward path, passing very old and very young along the way. Eventually we reached the church, built on top of a rocky outcrop and surrounded by a wall. There was a huge queue of people waiting to go in, but for what we still weren't sure. Georgians it seems are terrible queuers and loads of people were jumping the line, or simply climbing the steep old stone bank and wall to get in. It was total chaos, and we realised this wasn't really the organised event we were expecting. Eventually inside this walled courtyard we  breathed a sigh of relief and took a look around.


Rock lifting at the festival
Out for the day with French Benedicte, German Natalie and Aussie Fiona

There were characters galore in the crowd, and some of them wore clothes often so out of fashion I thought I'd been transported to the forties. Young men were taking part in a rock-picking-up competition, lifting a huge lump of granite that must have been nearly 100kg. Various people were lighting candles and sticking them to the wall inside the church, and a guy occasionally played a guitar-like instrument. Nearby, chunks of meat were being boiled in a 45 gallon steel drum heated by burning logs, and it turned out that to save them carrying the meat to the top, they simply walked live sheep and goats to the top and killed them there and then. An old guy plied French Benedicte with a shot of chacha that they were drinking - a type of clear Brandy unique to Georgia distilled from grapes, and she made the sourest face you'd ever seen, whilst beside us a group of men sung traditional songs in an acapella style when they felt like it.


It was all very peculiar, obviously not a music festival in the truest sense of the word but more a rebellious a celebration of some sort. After a while we sat back on a wall and watched everyone enjoying themselves, when a Georgian girl in her mid-twenties came along, speaking to us in both fluent English and German -  a doctor who'd made the long journey from the capital for this annual event which she explained was to commemorate a saint. In fact it turned out many people travelled across the country for it, and another guy had even driven for four days from Holland to be there! I have no idea why.

Back in the valley the four of us had a few hours to burn until the bus left, so took a hike up through some overgrown meadows to an old defensive tower and abandoned house that we'd spotted, leaving us stung by stinging nettles and out of breath. nearing the bottom a woman started talking to us, explaining that whilst she lived away now, the buildings we'd visited were left to her by her parents, and to our surprise was pleased we'd made the effort to see them. Her son then came along and plied us all with the more aforementioned chacha to drink, a custom at these festivals we were learning, which left us all a bit dazed for the rest of the afternoon. Lovely people.

Last night
After another walk around the village to pass time we headed back to Mestia, a good time to be inside as it hammered down with rain. It was my last night proper, and back at the homestay Roza cooked up a cracking home cooked meal consisting of fresh khachapuri bread, rice salad, home made chips, and aubergine & walnut salad. The girls and I headed into town for some beers in a local bar, watching some traditional local dancing, and chatting to three local chaps who again pressed us to join them in drinking chacha, this time out of a hip flask from behind the table. One of the had his keys on the table and I asked if he was planning to drive home, to which he answered 'yes, it's a hundred metres away so I'm only having five beers' to which I smiled politely at him, whilst looking at the girls in bemusement. It was a fun night and a perfect near-end to the trip.


Festival
Last night of the trip
Just a few of the many defensive towers in the Svaneti area
Harvest time
Claire, myself, David, Natalie, Fiona and Benedicte out for a beer

Thursday, 7 August 2014

Cave City

Gori and Borjomi, Georgia
 

In this blog: Stalin's birthplace, a forest hike, dinner with some Poles and a cave city


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The Stalin museum, Gori
Whilst people naturally associate Stalin with Russia, the controversial former Russian leader was actually born in Georgia in the town of Gori, and there remains the house he was born in as well as a shrine-like museum on his life. Before visiting Gori I must admit I knew little about him bar the controversy so thought it might be an interesting stop for a day.

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I left the mountainous town of Kazbegi on a packed minibus, the guy beside me constantly leaning on me as he fell asleep much to to my annyance. Luckily the scenery was a good distraction as we drove through dramatic huge green valleys and the occasional rusted old Soviet military vehicle.
Because of the shape of Georgia, I had to go back to the capital city Tblisi again to change bus, and waited around a while in the packed and confusing bus station until the people carrier to my destination filled up. The journey to Gori was for once straightforward and fast, and the first time I'd been on a proper dual carriageway for about six months meant it was refereshing not to just be plodding along for once. As we passed filling stations I noted petrol was just 63p per litre, surely some of the cheapest in Europe, as well as seeing road signs for both Tehran and Istanbul; a firm reminder of how far south Georgia actually is.


The bus dumped me off at Gori, but with no map of the town I had little idea how to get to the guesthouse I'd picked out in my guidebook. I took a stab anyway and started walking north in the midday sun, but arriving in a fairly poor neighbourhood I relised I had no idea where to go next. I pointed at the address in the guidebook and showed it to a local, who grunted to his mate sat in a nearby car, sat idle with his shirt open and his gut hanging out. This guy then went and asked a friend, made a phonecall and to my suprise ushered towards the car to say he'd take me. Sat in the car I realised it felt a a bit dodgy since Georgian men all look dodgy, but thankfully he took me there without problem and wanted nothing for his help. The homestay was run by a lovely couple, who's three three daughters spoke excellent English and welcomed me in, wanting to chat for a while to improve their skills further. 


Stalin museum
After an hour or so I set out for the Stalin Museum, a short walk away, and waited for the guided tour to commence which is where I got chatting to Luke, a touring cyclist from Texas. The museum was a grand old place, little changed since it's last re-fit in the seventies, and is now described as a 'museum of a museum' since it's still full of the sort of Soviet propogranda that was used during USSR times, not so effective on the population these days funnily enough. The fact the museum was preserved as-is is not necessaily a good thing though, and I learnt barely anything about Stalin or the Soviet era during my visit, bar the fact he was a very powerful leader who lay responsible for a famine that killed millions.


Once the tour had finished Luke and I had a wander across Stalin square and down Stalin Street but didn't find much so retired for an ice cream. He was nearing the end of a two month cycle trip from Lubjuana, Slovenia to Tblisi, Georgia, and after eight days since his last shower (which  strangley enough, was quite noticable) and a proper bed he decided to fork out and stay at the same homestay that night. At that point it bucketed down, so we relaxed under a parasol for an hour chatting away and comparing cycle touring notes, as well as talking to a passing tour guide and a local boxer who stopped for a chat, his face and ears covered with scars from a life of beatings. The only other sight in town worth a look was the old castle, set on a small hill in the middle of town and a very apt place for us to discuss US gun laws, and how the gun culture there makes sense to no-one but Americans themselves. According to Luke it's the gun-totting, power-tripping Police that you should fear most. 


Back at the guesthouse we met some other guests from France who had shown up, and after a while I invited two of the lads out for dinner with us - it's amazing how quickly these little groups form sometimes. At a small restaurant in town we all shared a fairly traditional Georgian meal of cheeses, bread, salad, meat salad, beans, bread and chicken, then sunk a couple of beers in an outdoor cafe back in Stalin Square. Luke was gracefully self-aware of both himself as an American and the shortcomings of his nation, and the French guys who's names I forget were really interesting , one of whom had lived in Cornwall for six months in the past, and the other an in-house journalist for Marsaille FC. It was a fascinating evening, the sort of which don't happen often enough, chatting in this square 'til late with a group of well educated guys, about American culture, travel, Islam and the recent Air Malaysia crash.


The next morning I said goodbye to the others who were all heading off, and spent the morning catching up with uploading pictures and writing. Staying in a family home as I was, it was a good insight into how real Georgian life ticked by, and I was invited to watch their Mum making khachapuri - a stuffed cheese bread which they let me try afterwards. At 4pm it was time to leave, and they kindly offered to drive me to the bus station where I headed on to the town of Borjomi a couple of hours away. We passed alongside the main dual carriageway that passes through the country being built, people selling huge piles of melons by the road, heaps of people selling hammocks, men everywhere stood around looking dodgy even if they weren't, and lots of fields on the plains laying to waste whilst a few grew wheat. Borjomi struck me well on first appearance; a spa town nestled in a wooden valley, and with little left of the day I relaxed and read.



Mrs Luka making home-made Khachapuri - stuffed cheese bread
Hiking
The next day was a walking day. Borjomi has a beautiful national park on it's doorstep and I was keen to take a look inside, so after breakfasting with a friendly young German couple, I headed to the park office to get a map. Thankfully unlike in Kazbegi there was information galore, and I was soon on my way a couple of miles along the road to the park entrance. I walked along a narrow wooden valley before climbing steeply to a ridge from which you could see for miles, then down to another wide grassey valley. Nothing much happened, but it was a very pleasant walk through forest and I saw just a couple of people all day making it pretty tranquil. After seven hours on foot I was tired though not shattered, and found myself at a main road where I managed to flag down a passing minibus heading back to Borjomi for a well earned rest.


Vardzia
Fourty miles south of Borjomi lies the ancient cave city of Vardzia, first built in the 12th century and at one point home to up to 2,000 monks in the form of a monestary. In fact, a handful of monks still live and worship there in the caves today. I enquiring for a minibus to get there at the nearby tourist information centre in Borjomi, but not before the exceptionally helpful main man Artur shook my hand, gave me a CD of local folk music, and pointed out the local sights before I'd barely even said hello. The next morning, along with three friendly couples from Holland and Poland, we headed there for the day, stopping briefly at a small local monestary for a quick look before spending an hour or two at the huge castle at near-unpronouncable Akhaltsikhe. The castle dates from the 12th century and has a curious mix of styles, but sadly  has recently been so over-restored that it now looks straight out of the Disneyland school of fakeness, which it might as well be given the hotel and restaurants they've built from scratch in the grounds. 



Akhaltsikhe castle, part old, part over re-built
Khertvisi Fortress
 A few miles south we stopped again at Khertvisi Fortress which was much more like it - an imposing fort on a hillock in the valley which has been all but abandoned, save for some cattle who now appear to call it home, and it was intersting to have a poke about for a few minutes, though not so nice to discover possibly the worst toilet on this whole trip nearby. And that takes some doing. At lunchtime we finally reached the afformentioned cave city of Vardzia, and after a nice lunch by the river went for  a look inside. Over four hundred rooms had been carved into the soft rock of the cliff, along with paths joining them together, wine cellars and a number of churches. Over the years the caves have been invaded by raiders and destroyed by earthquakes so they're not exactly pristine, but were very intersting to look around. Having visited Cappdadocia in Turkey a few years ago though which are much more extensive and striking, I wasn't quite as blown away as I could be. Probably the mark of a jaded travel snob who should probably go home soon!


Vardzia cave city
The final stop for the day was at what we were told were hot springs, an excellent end we thought, but in reality we found before us a crumbling concrete building. We all questioned it with the driver but alas it was true, and inside was little better - a building barely suitable for cows and sheep. It was only a quid to go in the baths though so we went for a bathe, finding it to be about a quid too expensive. With no swimming gear I went in in just my boxers, and consequently spent ten minutes outside drying in the sun whilst getting bitten by every big fly around, who apparantly like skin marinated in sulphuric waters. Neither of which was a pretty sight. The journey back to Borjomi was beautiful, driving through a lovely river valley in the 28° evening sun. The driver was quite a nice guy but a scarily fast driver though, especially given that we was driving a right-hand drive car in a country where they drive on the right. Meaning any time he wanted to overtake, which was most of the time, he had to lean across the car to check for traffic and jerkily swerve out. The third near miss that day came when we rounded a corner to find an arctic truck coming towards us on the wrong side of the road, andafter braking hard and skidding briefly off onto the dirt hard shoulder, I shouted at him to slow down, to get the response that 'that was his fault, and these things are just normal here'. Thanks, reassuring.

Back in Borjomi, everyone went their seperate ways except for Justyna and Lukasz, a lovely couple from Poland who were very clever and spoke excellent English. They met whilst working for Microsoft in Wawsaw, and he now works as a sales manager for Samsung and she for an NGO that helps put disabled people into work. They were really engaging to talk to and gave me a new insight into Polish society, since most of the Polish people that we encounter in Britain generally just work in menial jobs and keep themselves to themselves. Being 35, Lukasz was old enough to just remember living under Soviet rule, and recounted tales of queing up for rations, paranoia about spying during communist times, as well as Poland's relationship with Russia today and a brief history of the Ukraine, all of which led to a compelling evening and me being brieflfy locked out of the homestay for getting back too late.


Borjomi is known throughout the former USSR states for it's drinking water, a hit with former Soviet leaders thanks to it's rather different, slightly salty and mildly sulphuric flavour. The following morning I filled a bottle from a fountain in the park and tried it - nice to try but I won't be an addict. The park is popular with holiday makers from all over the region and it was intersting to see how much money was being thrown at redeveloping it. Though seeing that they'd copied (I reckon) architecture from Cornwall's famous Trago Mills should be enough to put anyone off visiting. Trago's influence travels far it seems.



American Luke, cycling from Ljubljana to Tblisi. Probably just cause both names sound weird!
Scenery on walk
Farm shed full of calves
Ojapuri - typical Georgian dish of basically fried pork and chips
Khertvisi Fortress
Vardzia cave city
Polish Lukasz and Justyna

Monday, 4 August 2014

Run To The Hills

Kazbegi, Georgia

In this blog: hiking to a glacier, drinking cheap wine with some Ukranians, and cycling to the Russian border.



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Caucasius mountains
View of Kazbegi, Caucasius mountains

Whilst Tblisi was nice, there were two problems for me:
1. It was stinking hot
2. It was a city


There was only one solution, to head to the mountains, the Greater Caucasus mountains to be precise, a three hour minibus (or marshrutka as they call them) to the north. From the hostel, I took the metro a few miles north to the bus station - one of only four metro systems built by the former USSR, an extravagant decision given the relatively small size of Tblisi but apparently swayed by the fact that Stalin was born in Georgia. The bus station was chaotic, with hundreds of minibuses haphazardly parked in no particular order, people wandering everywhere, and with the destination signs written in Georgian script and therefore totally illegible to me, a lot of asking around ensued. Eventually I squeezed into a very sweaty red Ford Transit van, the tool of choice for Georgian public transport, and half an hour later off we went. We passed heaps of fruit stalls on the roadside, many selling huge watermelons which are very popular throughout the country, and cows wandered along the verges and often onto the road. The roads themselves were bumpy and the driving a bit fast and erratic for my liking, and as we passed churches or crucifixes many people closed their eyes and did the sign of the cross, touching their their chest, head and stomach. The Georgian Military Highway as it's known, climbed through hundreds of turns up into the big green mountains, and eventually a few snowy peaks started to emerge. The area looked beautiful.


Arriving at the village of Kazbegi at 1750m altitude the temperature was more manageable, and the scenery not unlike Switzerland, but I had a bit of a nightmare finding accommodation since strangely few of the many guest houses actually had signs outside. A couple of teenage girls touting for business in the town centre tried to get me to stay at their family's place nearby. I rarely take up the service of touts but reluctantly had a look inside and decided against it. As I left the house onto the street, the two girls and another friend worked hard to pursuade me their friend's place next door, and to my suprise together physically pulled me in through the gateway, saying 'just look, just look!' They were doing it playfully but I really wasn't impressed with their style and walked off.  If you're pushy it mean's you're desperate, and if you're desperate what you're selling probably isn't much good. An hour later I ended up at the unfortunately named but fairly pleasant 'Nazi's Guesthouse', named after it's owner, a lovely lady in her fifties called Nazi Chkeruli.  She was born post war so I really don't know what were her parents thinking with that name! By now the day was all but done since I'd set off late originally, so after briefly chatting to an Aussie, an American and a Polish lawyer I hit the hay.


Gergeti Glacier 
The guesthouse was actually more of a homestay and all the home cooked meals were eaten communally, which is where at breakfast the next day I met Rebekka from Germany and Stijn (Stein) from Holland, a former kindergarten teacher and medical technology student respectively. They had a day of walking planned which sounded good, and kindly let me tag along. We headed up through the fairly dilapidated concrete and rusty steel village, and climbed up a path in some steep woods until we reached Tsminda Sameba church an hour later, perched right on top of a hillock and a local attraction of sorts. After a look inside walked on and up steadily for another four hours, across open mountainous land above the tree line, eventually reached Gergeti Glacier at 3200m above sea level. The glacier was impressive and shaped a bit like a bumpy ski slope, though didn't have the steep crumbling edge like some I've seen before, and even though it appeared to be covered in stones it was deceptively slippery on the few metres we dared venture. A number of people had crampons and ice axes and were carrying on right above to reach the top of Mt Kazbeg a couple of thousand metres higher up. I felt a touch of jealousy, but now wasn't the time. We chatted briefly to a Czech guy who was waiting by the glacier's edge for his friends and fondling a beer - 'beer is the only thing Czechs do well!' he joked when I questioned why he'd carried it so far. The glacier cooled the air significantly so we didn't stay long before heading back, and with the day coming to a close the low sun made the scenery look quite spectacular, especially when we saw the church from earlier seemingly float amongst the clouds below.

Gergeti Glacier with Rebekka from Germany and Stijn from Holland
Gergeti Glacier

That evening at the guesthouse I met a hilarious group of Ukrainians who had just finished a four-day mountain ascent, and were sat around a table with huge plastic bottles of cheap Georgian wine in a merry ol' state, and they invited me to join them along with some other French, Dutch and American folks. One was a 13 year old lad who they let him have a bit of wine, another was surprisingly a lawyer and they were all as mad as each other. My glass seemed to refill itself constantly, and a hilarious evening followed of toasts, daft questions and generally tomfoolery.


Bike to the border

 The next morning my hiking partners from the previous day were keen to move onto another town, and I debated whether to join them since it was a good opportunity.  Being on a two week holiday they were keen to make the most of their time, but I'd long since had enough of moving fast from place to place so decided to stay another day. I hired a mountain bike for the day and realised it was the first time since in Bangalore, three months ago so therefore some sort of personal record of time spent away from two wheels I reckon. The guys in the hire shop spoke barely a word of English, but with some pointing at the map and a waving of hands I had both a ride for the day and some ideas of where to go. Disapointingly, despite what I'd been told the mountain biking in the area simply meant the act of riding a mountain bike on roads in the mountains and not actually riding off-road as one might expect, but it was better than nothing.

We were just ten miles from the Russian border, a fact which sounded quite exciting, so I took the road there which to my suprise it was downhill the whole way. I groaned at the thought of the ride back up later, something I'd never have done this time last year whilst cycling across Europe - my former fitness is nothing but a memory now. After so long since the last ride  it felt great to be back on an iron horse again, and heading down through the high sided green and rocky valley the scenery was quite spectacular. Riding through a dark tunnel which had no lights was a little hairy though, and when cars came I had no choice but to stop and squeeze tightly against the tunnel wall. Nearing the border the road turned to dirt briefly and went through a construction site for what I guess was a hydro electic plant, though given it's proximity to Russia and the mysterious tunnels full of constuction traffic heading into the mountain, it seemed more like a real-life James Bond set. I neared the Russian border and stopped a hundred metres or so away, having a rest and a drink of water. A minute or so later a border guard wandered over.


Guard: What are you doing?
Me: I just cycled from Kazbegi and now I'm heading back
Guard: Why you waiting?
Me: I just had a rest and drink
Guard: Go back to Kazbegi
Me: (casually) OK
Guard: GO BACK to Kazbegi!
Me: (hastily) Sure!


It was a blunt though not exactly scary exchange, but I wouldn't have wanted to argue with him. The ride back up was predictably a right old slog, and I passed back through Kazbegi to ride up the nearby Sno valley, the odd lorry driver beeping and waving at the rare sight of a cyclist as they passed. Sno valley was flat, quiet and lovely to ride along, the road weaving through meadows, past crumbling concrete houses with overgrown gardens, and a beautiful old stone defensive tower. As you do, I looked and smiled at people I passed to acknowledge the time of day but no-one smiled back, and one guy sternly even shouted out a load of stuff. I later learnt a simple nod suffices, but even then might not be reciprocated - Georgian's aren't always the most friendly. I reached a very poor village with dirt roads, crumbling buildings, gas and water pipes running overhead, and rusty old Russian cars sat around. A sight typical of poor rural Georgia. It was bleak enough already, and when it started raining I took that as a sign to call it a day.


Back at the guesthouse I had plans to get on with writing but they were put on hold when I got chatting to a 60 year old Californian guy; a maths teacher who had a slow dreamy drawl and seemed to have travelled a lot to off-the-beaten-track places over the years, including Sudan, Djibouti  and Ethipoia - the latter a place where he's partway through what I thought was quite a specific personal challenge to hike all the mountains over 4000m high. At dinner that night I met a pleasant Swedish couple at dinner from Stockholm, and we compared notes on our respective countries. Whilst many people outside the country don't know where Georgia is, it sure does see quite a few tourists.
In some ways there was probably more to do at Kazbegi, but whilst the location in the centre of a mountainous valley was beautiful,  the village was pretty run down, information on hikes lacking and the guesthouse and food a bit basic so early the next morning I moved on back to the plains.

Caucasius mountains
Gergeti Glacier
Floating church

Border
Sno valley

Thursday, 17 July 2014

As Active As They Come

Mt Merapi, Java island, Indonesia (map)

In this blog: hiking Indonesia's most active volcano

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Sunrise on top of Mt Merapi

Mt Merapi is the most active volcano in Indonesia - no mean feat in a country which has 127 of them - and has erupted many times over the years, including 2010 when it killed over 300 people, and again briefly last October. 

We both did a load of research for a few hours to work out the safety and logistics of hiking it independently, and it was said to be safe and stable at the moment so all seemed fine. After the early morning at Borobudor temple and still feeling a little ropey from illness, late that afternoon we packed a light day bag and headed off taking a local bus across the congested city, then a regional bus to a transit point called Blabak an hour or two away. At Blabak though, the wheels fell off our plan somewhat when we found the minibuses we'd read about were no longer running. We had something to eat whilst chatting it over in a little cafe, which also doubled as a well stocked fireworks shop! It was now dark, and reluctantly we decided to take a motorcycle taxi to get there, the only option. After agreeing a price I made the guy let me use his helmet, hoping it might slow him down a bit - it did. In fact the drivers were both sensible and when Rene's driver and mine went side to side uphill, it was barely a five mph crawl! From roughly sea level originally, we climbed and climbed and climbed, and a very uncomfortable hour later eventually reached the tiny village of Selo at about 2,000m altitude, easily finding a homestay for the night and got to bed early,

Dawn climb
Like Mt Semeru which I hiked a week or so before, Mt Merapi required a walk through the night to get you there for dawn when the skies are clearer and the gases less toxic, and so the alarm went off at a fairly ridiculous 1am for a 1.30 start. 

I didn't feel great again, in fact I felt terrible to be honest, and on reflection yes, I should have rested and gone another day but determination can take you a long way and determined I was. The first couple of miles were on road, getting progressively steeper until turning into a narrower track. I hauled myself along slowly and steadily, and for a few miles we climbed a rocky, rooty path through woods by torchlight until around 4am, when we left the treeline and were on the volcano proper. It had been very hard going in the state I was in but I wasn't getting any worse, and poor old Rene had had to listen to a whole lot of moaning along the way. 

We could just make out the silhouette of the volcano as well as the long string of lights from the other hikers ahead of us, and it was a truly intimidating sight, looking almost too steep to be possible. We went for it, accidentally losing the path for a little while and clambering on very loose scree, before finding our way again. The surface was still steep, loose and very slow going. Small rocks sometimes rolled down from the person in front, but 5am brought first light which helped things a little. Strangely I seemed to have flushed any remaining illness out of my system by this point, and in a complete role reversal Rene couldn't keep up with me. Finally, to our delight at around 5.45am we made it and along with maybe fifty other people were on the summit, 2,930m above the sea.

It was an eerie place. We could see into the huge crater below, where gases were coming out of a number of vents and forming dirty clouds above. I looked up at the true summit slightly above, too dangerous to reach, and noted that until an eruption last October it was 40m higher again. The sun was rising in the east, and we were way above the clouds which glowed orange below us. Small vents leaked gases all around us, but not in dangerous quantities. It was quite some place to be, and whilst fairly cold we stayed an hour and a half admiring it all.

The descent went well, and it was great to see the views we'd missed in the dark. By the time we were back in the village though I was done for. The homestay staff bought a breakfast to the room (is it still breakfast when you've been up for ten hours?) and I passed out straight after for a couple of hours. 

If getting to Selu in the first place had been difficult, getting back was harder. We were told that being a Sunday the local buses weren't running, and with no other hikers now leaving we were a little stuck. There was only one thing for it, hitchhiking. For twenty minutes all we seemed to see whilst waiting were motorbikes and the odd lorry, and some locals lazed across the road looking a little bemused by us. Eventually though a guy stopped in a Toyota saloon and seemed like a decent chap so we hopped in for an hour of no talking, but lots of loud power ballads. An hour later we were back in Blabak waving down a bus, then another hour again back in Yogyakarta, shattered but happy and ready for the final stop in Indonesia.

We hiked through the night to see this, and it was worth it

Mt Merapi summit - used to be 40m higher until an explosion a couple of years ago

Mt Merbabu, neighbouring volcano

Mt Merapi summit

Drying tobacco grown on the mountain

Monday, 7 July 2014

Smoking Semeru

Mt Semeru, Java Island, Indonesia 

In this blog: hiking through the night to the top of an active volcano



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Sylvain, my French hiking partner for a few days
on the journey to start the trek
Mt Semeru is an active volcano, and the highest point on the main Indonesian island of Java at 3,676m. One of my main reasons for visiting Indonesia was to see active volcanoes, and I'd read a bit about hiking it. I was quite keen on doing so, but in the end I gave up on the idea when it seemed too expensive and full of hassle, thinking I'd do another one instead. Upon checking in at a hostel in the city of Malang though, I spotted a note from another traveller asking if anyone was keen on joining him for the ascent. My travel buddy Canadian Renė was away for a few days sorting out a visa and I needed something to do, so I left a reply and the following morning was awoken in the large dorm room by a guy by the name of Sylvain. He was a friendly and tall 22 year old French guy who before I'd even opened my eyelids, reeled off fact after fact about what we need to do and where we needed to go, whilst I lay in bed half asleep and unable to process anything he said, even if it was in English. Half an hour later when I was a bit more with it, he started over again and making sense I soon decided I was up for it.

We popped into a local cafe for breakfast, where the friendly-as-you-like middle age owner chatted away and asked to take our photo to put on her Facebook page. Through Malang's heavy traffic we took a minibus across town to the bus station, and another minibus to the town of Tampung. We'd been told that to hike Semeru we needed a medical certificate, a new one on me, so we searched around for somewhere to get this done, finding a small local hospital a sweaty twenty minute walk away in the midday sun. It was the strangest hospital I've ever been in in that there were about fifteen staff but literally no patients. None. They spoke little English but were very smiley and we managed to get what we wanted; a simple blood pressure and BMI reading. We asked them if they knew how to get to the base of Mt Semeru and they discussed it between themselves for a few minutes. Different people made phone calls, and suddenly we were told a jeep was coming to get us. Imagine that, a hospital that doubles as a travel agency.


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The jeep was ridiculously expensive for the distance involved but we had little choice, and the journey absolutely beautiful. We started off passing apple orchards for a few miles before the road climbed into the hills and got progressively steeper and windier, passing through jungle, small villages then eventually vast swathes of land growing a variety of vegetables since volcanic soil is pretty good for that sort of thing. The views were fantastic. We eventually reached the small village of Ranu Pani and found a very basic homestay for the night. Being at around 2000m altitude, we opened our bags to find the increased atmospheric pressure had popped both our packets of crisps, and left other packet bulging!

Decisions for the hike needed to be made, and whilst Sylvain was a really nice and friendly guy, he was also a bit arrogant in his opinions and reluctant to compromise and that irritated me. He was 22 and had been traveling for two weeks while I was nine years older with two years travelling experience behind me, and whilst I'm not always right that counts for something. We argued about how much water to take and I was right in the end, we argued how long it would take to organise the trip and a day was fine as I predicted, and we debated whether we needed a guide, which it turned out was unnecessary as I proposed. I realised how easy it is travelling with Rene. Bring back Rene!

Heading for the top 
We set off at 8am the next day having paid the permit fee - a generous ten times more expensive for foreigners than natives, and strolled past some beautifully kept fields of onions before starting to head up the mountain. For the next three hours the walking was steady, shaded and very pleasant and the trees and shrubs we passed were unexpectedly very different to lowland Indonesia. To our excitement after hearing a rustle we looked amongst some trees below and saw a number of wild black langur monkeys which was a nice surprise. Rounding a corner the scenery changed as we unexpectedly reached a nice lake and stopped to admire it for a moment. Another half mile on the going got very steep for fifty metres before a beautiful scene unfolded before us as we reached a brief summit; a dry meadow lake of wild flowers in a green and pleasant valley shadowed by small volcanic peaks on each side.

About three hours in, a beautiful lake part way up the volcano


The scenery changed constantly all the way
The scenery changed again as we entered a forest, meeting three or four huge groups of Indonesian hikers resting and eating, all keen to say hello and 'where you from?' as we passed as did many that day. We had our lunch a little way on, the first of four meals of peanut butter sandwiches we made as we went along - a treat the first time, awful the last, but saved us carrying a cooker. We hid a bottle of water ready for the descent the next day to save weight and continued on. Despite my thoughts on his analytical skills, Sylvain was a really nice guy, and interesting and knowledgeable guy to talk to - a recent graduate in history who likes ancient history cause it's both less gory and 'cause he can't relate to it, whereas I find history I can't relate to immensely boring. His English was particularly good for a Frenchman (!) and many good conversations passed the time away nicely. 

After a couple more changes in scenery we suddenly found ourselves at the campsite where people stay the night, located at the much cooler altitude of about 2,900m. It was only 2pm and we'd made way better progress than expected despite his purposely slower pace - 'slow and no stopping, that's what my father always says' - I prefer to go at my own pace and stop when I need to, but horses for courses. We had to decide whether to stay there or progress to the next campsite an hour on, but soon good old Mother Nature decided for us by unleashing a downpour. A school group of sixteen year olds excitedly invited us to shelter in their gazebo area and for the next couple of hours they chatted away whilst giving us tea and snacks. Come 5pm we put our hired tent up and fashioned the missing pegs from sticks, and after more peanut butter sandwiches it was lights out at 7. 

7pm is a bedtime I've not seen since I was in nappies, but it was fairly necessary since the alarm clock was set for a record breaking (in my record book anyway) 12.30am! The reason for this masochistic action is that the done thing on Mt Semeru is to hike through the night in order to reach the summit for sunrise when the skies are clear, and it's certainly not something I'd normally do. I was convinced it would take just over three hours to get to the top based on previous experience so wanted to leave around 2am so we didn't get cold at the top waiting. Silvain however was convinced it would take way longer and just wouldn't listen, and I eventually relented, telling him I'd be moaning at him about the cold when we got there early. Even when it came to setting the alarm he pushed to set it an extra five minutes earlier than I proposed before I shot him down for being so pedantic; honestly!


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After just two proper hours sleep cause of the noise and discomfort, at 1am we set off for the summit. From the plateaux the campsite was on, it was now straight up. Silvain had his headtorch on whilst I made do with my little pen torch. The track twisted and turned through forest for an hour and we soon hit rush hour traffic - it was just like the M25 on a Friday night. We overtook hiker after hiker, not because we were going particularly fast but because they were so slow - all Indonesian, so I'm not sure whether to blame it on the shorter legs, the cigarettes (the national pastime I've decided) or just a lack of fitness. After an hour we left the tree line behind and hit the real volcano, from then on it was nothing but loose volcanic ash and small rocks below our feet. Hiking was now slow and really hard work, partly due to the 35% gradient now, but mostly 'cause it was similar to walking on sand dunes, and each step seemed to be four forward and back. Indonesian hikers were now littered everywhere beside the track, either catching their breath or in some cases passed out sleeping despite it being nearly zero degrees at this altitude! We ploughed on (literally) before later my torch battery died. I realised I must have left the spare been back at the tent so had to rely on stray flashed from other peoples lights thereon - hiking a volcano by night without a light is not recommended! It was good it was too dark to see the summit though since it would have been pretty demotivating in your sights all the time. 

Summit
Eventually at 4.20am we were finally there, 3,676m above sea level. There was both the relief and satisfaction of getting there, and the amazing sight of volcanic activity since Mt Semeru as I said before is an active volcano. Whilst she's fairly well behaved there's still a natural vent a couple of hundred metres along from the summit, where she was puffing out gases and regularly spitting out red hot ashes into the air. It was such an exciting sight and totally unexpected, and to top it off the sound was like the jet engines of a plane taxing down the runway. It was truly awesome to behold. 

Unfortunately it was also blooming freezing and a while until dawn so we went a little way down to a sheltered spot, where since we'd made it in 3 1/4 hours as I predicted I moaned like mad to Sylvain about the cold, mostly to remind him to listen to people! The views over the various city lights below were amazing and you could see the silhouettes of other volcanoes in the distance as well. At around 5am we saw glimmers of light on the horizon before a while later the sun started to rise, and what a sight it was, truly beautiful. We were soon able to see both the north and south coasts of Java, various towns and cities, and numerous volcanic peaks in all directions, their upper halves poking through a layer of cloud below and a couple of them smoking away as well. It was just incredible, and well worth all the effort. There were a good fifty people on the large summit now but it never felt overcrowded or like a mad tourist attraction. We couldn't stay forever though so after nearly 2.5 hours we started the descent, the loose volcanic sand now working to our favour as you could move almost effortlessly down through it, almost as if you were skiing. It was strange seeing the things which we'd walked past earlier but not been able to see, the rocky features, the green trees.


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Back at the campsite we dozed for an hour before packing up and heading back to base. I reckon there may have been up to a thousand hikers on the mountain at any one time and most of them under thirty and Indonesia, male dominated but with quite a few females and all very friendly as we passed. We saw just five other westerners on the mountain the whole time though, one of them being a White Kenyan lady leading a tour group which was resting two thirds of the way down. She'd been on the mountain many times, and recommended another route the rest of the way, 2km shorter and more beautiful but with another 600m high hill to go over so went for it. She was right on the beauty, but the hill killed our legs and the route ended up taking even longer! Partly because we ended up lost in thousands of acres of onion fields at the end! To top it off it then rained heavily and we sheltered under the overhang of a shed for half an hour, before some farmers pointed us roughly the right way and eventually we made it back to digs. It was a 14 mile journey over the two days, and I took a very necessary and very long hot shower, annoying everyone by inadvertently using all the hot water. We then had a nice conversation with a lovely Swiss couple for an hour or so who'd also just finished the hike; she a exhibit restorer in a museum and he it turned out, a successful French photographer called Andri Pol - http://www.andripol.com/.

I slept for over ten hours that night, quite a feat for me and woke up feeling very refreshed the next morning, albeit pretty achey. After relaxing for a few hours and poking around the very poor mountain village, we then had to try and get back to Malang somehow. The hire jeep was ridiculously expensive so we ended up doing something even more ridiculous - taking a share jeep where sixteen of us stood, sat and squeezed in an old open-backed Toyota Land Cruiser jeep. Despite standing on my aching legs for the whole way it was good fun chatting and joking with the other Indonesian hikers, and they even sorted us a lift for the second leg back to Malang city a couple of hours later. From smoking crater to smoky city, one heck of a trip.


Even at 3am heading up to the summit at close to
zero degrees, I'm still able to sweat
View over Malang city just before dawn
Sunrise. Amazing views.
The crowds
The smoking (and sometimes exploding) vent at the top
of Mt Semeru 3,676m above sea level
Big gas release, though blew the other way
Looking towards Mt Bromo, smoking away in the background
Descending with Silvain
Mt Sermeru from the campsite at 2,900m elevation
Onion fields at the base, on the rich volcanic soil