Cornwall to Sweden - day 13

Hamburg, Germany to Kiel, Germany

What a wasted morning. Apart from Sydney at new years eve once, I've never had difficulty finding available hostels when travelling. But this morning it all went a bit wrong.

I've only got a few days of the ride left now, and with many different ways to get to Sweden via different bridges, ferries and Danish islands I had to make some firm plans for the final steps, and after an hour or so it was all decided in my mind.

Then the nightmare began. The first hostel was fully booked. I changed my route. The next nearest hostel was also busy. I rerouted continuously, phoning 9 or 10 hostels before I eventually I found one way off my route. All this took nearly 4 hours in front of the computer! Popular region & busy time of year I guess. 

Just a 57 mile ride in the end, but for the first time felt lethargic throughout. A day off, lack of sleep and no breakfast I guess. 

Made it to the small city of Kiel this evening which seems quite odd to be honest. Maybe it's the sun or just holiday time, but everyone young and old seemed to be walking the streets drunk with a beer in hand! It all felt a bit old. It's close to Denmark, and has the ferry port to Norway so I guess it's just a different bunch of folks here.

Denmark tomorrow! 

Route map

Hamburg

Hamburg, Germany

Hallo! I had planned for the cycle trip to be one constant trip, with maybe a rest day in the middle. However I've come to realise that once you're in certain places it makes sense to stop and take them in. So here I am in Hamburg, Germany. 

Good start to the day, where after a nice egg and bacon breakfast I just absent mindedly walked out without paying, only to realise ten minutes later and return red faced to cough up. She took it fine though! 

I've had a good wander round the city, cruised down the river and back (included in the day travel pass), seen the absolutely huge container port - one of the biggest in the world, but best of all, been on a decommissioned Russian U-Boat (submarine) moored up here! It was fascinating, just a cholstrophibic maze of small rooms, pipes and cables. Built in 1977 I think, its pretty old and dated now, with a nasty musty smell. 

Last full day in Germany tomorrow, and only 250 or so miles to go now!

Cornwall to Sweden - day 12

Bremen, Germany to Hamburg, Germany

Some days things just work out.

Shorter route yesterday, so I googled Bremen to see if there was anything worth seeing. Turns out Mercedes had one of their big car plants there, but there didn't appear to be any factory tours. Oh well. I set out on my day and thought I'd just ride past to see how big the place was. Came across the factory reception and thought no harm in asking, and it turned out there was a free two-hour tour 10 minutes later! 

Only trouble was it was all in German! I can't quite describe how big and impressive this plant was though. It had it's own road and bus network, a test track which every new car goes round, many huge assembly halls and more robots than you could ever count, picking up and welding parts. Photography was banned, but I couldn't help myself and assumed the role of corporate spy, using my little GoPro camera in the palm of my hand (and didn't get caught).

This however left me short on time for cycling, so had to bomb it to Hamburg to get to the hostel in time. Same scenery as the day before really, very pleasant and flat, ended up doing 81m. Also cycled past the Airbus plane factory, and the Becks brewery; the things that excite me eh!

Today's route

Cornwall to Sweden - day 11

Meppen, Germany to Bremen, Germany

'You wants to take ze photo os my dress?!' says the receptionist this morning, looking a bit embarrassed. 'No!' I said laughing, 'I want to take a photo of that address'. Hah! Another conversation lost in translation.

I've been cross country today, going through lots of small red brick villages, passing various crops, dairy/pig/chicken farms and windmills. All the farms look very modern and impressive, but most impressive are the solar panels, which are on pretty much every farm and industrial building you see (and therefore not wasting good farmland).

Sounds odd maybe, but to me Germany seems the most like England of the countries I've been through, both in terms of scenery and just generally how things look and work. Though they work better here of course.  

The German efficiency mindset must have really gotten into my brain today, and allowed me to service the bike, cycle 87 miles with no problems at all, eat a decent lunch and finish the day by 6pm. Amazing, considering I normally end up finishing between 8 and 9pm.

But bigger that that - today was a major milestone - I passed the 1,000 mile mark this afternoon! A great feeling, but some way to go yet.

Today's route

Cornwall to Sweden - day 10

Arnhem, Netherlands to Meppen, Germany

Another day, another country!

Good things never last too long do they? After the high of Friday followed yesterday; another long day of 109 miles riding, half of which was through a storm, complete with thunder & lightning and very heavy rain. One lightning bolt must have hit the electric pylon near me, because the thunder straight after left my ears ringing and almost shook me off the bike!

Going over the Dutch-German border, once again everything changed straight away. Signs, houses, cars, cycle paths, shops etc. Everything is a lot more functional rather than stylish in Germany compared to Holland, as you might expect. The people I've met here so far have all been very friendly and spoken perfect English. 

My phone has become my lifeline, both for both booking accommodation and sat nav as I ride (which I must add is way better than a map). But with my horrible sweat and the weather, it's been playing up this past couple of days and stopped completely yesterday afternoon. It really felt like I'd lost a limb. With a small back up map and signs I eventually got to the end... the long way. Seems to be working again, for now.

Route map and here (then phone died)

Cornwall to Sweden - day 9

Antwerp, Belgium to Arnham, The Netherlands

If I dreamed up what the perfect world would be like; it would be the The Netherlands. Seriously, it's like something out of a dream. Perfect roads, loads of greenery, nice towns, clean & tidy, beautiful friendly people, amazing cycle tracks - the place is something else. I mean where else could I cycle 128 miles in a day!

For a start, it's completely flat which means you just don't seem to get tired - I could have kept pedalling further had I not run out of daylight! But most of all is the fact that cyclists are treated like kings - they have priority over everyone; pedestrians included.Cycle lanes are perfectly tarmacked paths that are wide enough to fit two cars side by side, with their own detailed sets of signs and traffic lights. Houses are all unique and stylish, everyone cycles youg and old, gardens are perfectly manicured as if taken from a Hollywood movie. Even the dustbins are totally different. I love it. Best day of the trip so far.

Route map

Antwerp

I'd planned to have a rest day in a couple of days time, but Antwerp seemed quite happening so I decided to stay a day. The beauty of making it up as you go along eh!

Rather than rest as I should, I've managed instead to walk miles and miles following a tour route on a free map. It was well worth it, even if my legs are even more tired than before! Great city.

I also thought I'd give an insight into how I'm doing the cycle trip as it might not be very clear. I'm riding a lightweight road bike, with about 10kg of luggage in a pair of bags hung over the back wheel. Basically- one change of clothes, snacks, basic tools, toiletries and a few bits and pieces.

I'm staying in youth hostels to keep the cost down and meet people, and trying to ride about 80 miles a day, though this is often more, just because of the distance between hostels. They vary from modern quiet ones where I might have a dorm room to myself, to the current 16 bed bed-bug-ridden dive with no curtains, where midnight is an early night it seems. Takes what you finds.

I also need about an extra 2,000 calories a day from the riding apparently- so just have big meals and lots of carb based snacks. I try not to stop too often as it ruins the flow, but take pics and videos as I go.

Holland tomorrow!

Cornwall to Sweden - day 8

Tournai, Belgium to Antwerp, Belgium

I must admit, a couple of days ago when cycling in the hot heat, through boring scenery, getting in late and tired, I wondered why I was doing this. Yesterday was the reason.

I barely left a cycle path in all 80 odd miles. Nearly every single road has a path beside it, separated by either white lines or bushes. Bikes take priority at every junction and roundabout. In fact as I found out, you get beeped at if you ride on the road! 

The first half of the day was spent on a great path along the River Schelde, 45 miles with perfect surface and no cars. 

I stopped in Ghent for lunch -  Bradley Wiggins birthplace and a Mecca for cyclists. It was only meant to be a quick food stop, but it was their annual city festival and I was so taken with the place that I ended up staying all afternoon! Musicians and entertainment everywhere, interesting buildings and a buzzing atmosphere. 

All this made me very late for the second half of the day, and I didn't find my hostel in Antwerp til gone 10pm! But to get into the city meant crossing the Schelde, a huge river crossed only by tunnels. The first one didn't say 'no bikes' so I took a chance and went for it, pedalling flat out down the ramp. Within 100m everyone started beeping. OK, so not for bikes then! I squeezed back up the narrow footpath, breathed out, and eventually found the cycle tunnel.

Belgium is brilliant. I never thought I'd say that, but it is. And Ghent, now one of my favourite places. 

Route map (pictures soon)

Cornwall to Sweden, day 7

Amiens, France to Tournai, Belgium

The weather was all over the place on my 84m ride yesterday, with cloud, sun, rain, thunder and heavy hail! I've never been so pleased to cycle in the rain, very refreshing.

I'd been riding through the Somme region where many WWI battles happened, past four large British war cemeteries on the road I was on alone. It was an eye opening sight, the thousands of identical headstones. Brings home the sacrifices they made, and was good to see how well looked after it all was. 

Apart from that all I've really seen is field after field of corn and potatoes, with windfarms scattered between. The French know how to do them properly, unlike the poxy windmills often littered around Britain now!

Got into Belgium late in the afternoon, everything instantly looked and felt different, as if I'd gone a thousand miles over the border, rather than one. And the horse steak I mentioned previously? I can see why they got away with calling it cheap beef!

Today's route (first part before phone overheated)

Tournai, Belgium

Cornwall to Sweden, day 6

Paris, France to Amiens, France

Today was a bit of a step over the edge, the toughest day of cycling so far. 

Getting out of Paris was as slow as I expected, but I managed to do most of it on cycle lanes this time making it pretty enjoyable and painless. Google Maps app saves the day again! Even came across the huge Stade de France en route by chance which was very impressive, though not so much so as Wembley (of course).

Once out of the city though, the going got tough purely due to the relentless heat - 36º today! I went through ten big bike bottles of water and that wasn't nearly enough. It was a constant challenge just to keep finding places to get it. And worst of all was that I cycled over 94 miles in it!

Hanging out by the cool and refreshing fish chiller in a supermarket was a welcome relief for a bit. Though I was soon distracted by a local French delicacy which I thought I'd buy for tea tonight, until I found the hostel I'm staying in hasn't got a kitchen. Oh well, horse steak tomorrow night then!

Today's route

Paris & Tour De France

It's been a fairly relaxed couple of days in Paris - a weekend off after a hard week at work on the bike!

As the only intention of coming here was to watch the Tour De France final, rather than pack too much in I purposely decided to leave the sightseeing to another trip, as odd as that migth seem. Saturday was spent buying a camera for the trip, and visiting the Centre Pompidou - an inside-out building built in the late 70's which houses modern art. The art was hit and miss for me, though it was interesting to see the large Picasso collection. However I was more interested in the building itself which was incredible, a big interwoven maze of steel girders and ducting.

Sunday was devoted to Le Tour. I found a spot with a bunch of Brits who I happened to get chatting with - right by the Arc De Triumph, with the Eiffel Tower and a big screen TV showing coverage right in front of me; perfect! About 3pm in the scorching sun, 10,000 amateur cyclists cruised round the route as a bit of a charity thing, followed by a procession of hundred of tour sponsor vehicles.

Later, the live TV coverage came on of the tour, until about 8pm suddenly what was live on the TV was actually right in front of us! It was very excting, but so fast it was hard to work out who's who - the TV helped with that. 8 laps later, and Mark Canvendish didn't quite make it 5 tour final wins in a row, but nonetheless Britain's Chris Froome took home the overall title. Being on the spot I was, for the 100th Tour, with a Brit winning is a moment I'll never forget.

Cornwall to Sweden - day 5

Rouen, France to Paris, France

Completely overwealming. Cycling into Paris today has to be one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I kid you not!

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The first half of the ride this morning was on a a switch-off-and-pedal straight road for 50 miles, which was just about OK despite the constant headwinds and 32 deg heat. As I nearest Paris the road turned into dual carriageway so I split off but the going got slower. Eventually around 25 miles from the centre, I hit the outskirts of Paris which is where the fun really began.

I've never needed to be been so alert - you have to keep your eyes on everything and everyone every second; theres always someone doing something ignorant. Beeping, cutting up, pedestrians, road narrowing, road widening, potholes, traffic lights. Non stop. There was no obvious route to the centre away from the highways, and the odd cycle route seemed to start then disappear into obscurity. The city is way bigger than I could imagine.

Eventually I neared the centre and in the evening sun, cruised through the skyscraper area then up the Champs-Élysées, eventually getting to the Arc De Triumph where the traffic was nothing short of mental. I even rode round half of it. Never again! The whole place just looked absolutely beautiful though at that time of day.

So 92 miles later and knackered, despite all the possibilities it ended up being perfectly safe.

Apart from that right at the end, I pulled out onto an empty street, my chain slipped and for the first time since I was 15 I crashed onto the road! Grazed limbs, bruised ego. Couldn't help but laugh!

Cornwall to Sweden - day 4

Caen, France to Rouen, France

What's it like to ride 80 odd miles in 30 degree heat? Not as bad as you might think, it's a bit like having the window down in the car on a hot day - you get a nice breeze to cool you. That said, the moment you stop, you boil, and I'm the most tired tonight I've been yet, so it definitely takes it out of you.

Frustrating late start and late finish today. Took a chance taking a big diversion to the hostel I'm at in Rouens, which I couldn't book and wasn't sure even existed anymore! Got near to town and phone battery with address and maps on it died... Eventually found good ol Mc D's for a charge and wifi, and finally, found hostel which had one room left... need to get more organised on this trip!

Today's route

Cornwall to Sweden - day 3

Ringwood to Caen, France, via Portsmouth

Shortish day today at 45 miles. The aim was to get to Portsmouth with plenty of time to relax before the ferry to France. Cycling through The New Forest was very nice - a great part of the country. However once I got to Southampton I found myself on a mess of roads which were hard to navigate through to avoid the motorway. Good old Google maps sat nav saved the day.  

What with the roads, and looking round the gear at Southampton docks, then a Ferrari dealership, I got to the ferry port with 25 mins to go... only to find it was the wrong port! With some helpful directions I pedalled flat out across town to just catch it as the last person on the ship! Phew.

Great crossing, now in Caen, France. 

Todays route

Ferrari garage, Ringwood

Cycle to Sweden - day 2

Beer, Devon to Ringwood, Dorset

Today was supposed to be a 75 mile ride... it ended up being 91m! A bit of rerouting to avoid main roads, plus some major getting lost caused that. It's been a nice day of cycling along the south coast though, with some great scenery.

The roadkill count today however has been fairly low really, just a couple of stinking badgers and a fox. You notice these things on a bike! I almost caused some more when some moronic teenagers suddenly walked across the road and I had to swerve through them at 20mph.

It was another hot day and I couldn't refill the water bottles fast enough, but found a petrol station then a cafe along the way to help me out.

Click for Today's route on Strava

Osmington White Horse in the background

Cycle to Sweden - day 1

Home to Beer, Devon 

What a first day on the road. Blazing sunshine, quiet roads and no problems whatsoever (the bad news is that it can only get worse!). 

By chance my brother got home early and my sister was off work Ill, so after my last pasty for a while, I had a full family send off from the farm which was great, albeit 5 hrs after I planned. This blog uses the word dreckly for a reason!

I use a route tracking thing on my phone when cycling so I'll put up the route every day. Today is here.

Lift off

Well it's finally here. After a year or two of thinking about it, a few months of planning and a few weeks of frantic sorting I'm finally off! Had a great weekend of leaving parties and everything is packed up and ready to go.

So the master plan is to head to Sweden by bike via Paris then post the bike home. After that I plan to have a few months in Europe, before heading to the Middle East and South Asia, ending up in Canada. But it might all change along the way, who knows.

About 75 miles in the summer heat to cycle today, ending up in Beer - the other side of Exeter.