Amman, Jordan
Having spent three and a half months travelling in Europe I'm now in the Middle East - in many ways the real adventure is only just beginning.
My flight arrived near Amman late afternoon last Thursday, having to then take a bus to the station on the other side of the capital, then a taxi back to the hostel which I'd never have found if it were't for the driver - the start of my challenges with the often chaotic and indirect public transport system here. The taxi ride was my first proper experience of Jordan - lots of mad overtaking, roads that often don't have white lines, weaving in and out of cars, and a whole lot of beeping - they will beep for literally anything.
Jordan isn't a country that people necessarily think of visiting - after all, it's surrounded by Syria, Iraq, Israel and Eqypt, but believe it or not Jordan itself is very safe and has been for a long time. I think the idea came into my mind on holiday in Turkey a few years ago when I met a lady who was heading here and told me all about it. It's not a huge country by area and most of it is desert, but as you'll see in the coming blogs, there are some really good reasons to visit. It's also currently has perfect weather - despite nearly being winter, it's about 22 degrees with clear skies most days - perfect.
After a very busy few days in Germany, I'd decided to spend a couple of days taking it a bit easier, especially as there wasn't many real sights to see anyway. I've realised that I've spent a lot of time of late doing stuff and seeing things, but neglected the other side of travelling a little - hanging out, relaxing, chatting, reading and generally soaking things up. Fortunately straight away in the hostel I met Malte (pictured with dreadlocks) who I thereafter spent pretty much all my time in Amman hanging out with - a German guy who's staying in Jordan for a few months to improve his skills in speaking Arabic and has been here for a few days so knows where everything is.
The first day started pretty leisurely, with Malte and I going for a wander through the fairly poor downtown area where we were staying, past the hustle and bustle of people selling things on the street, traffic everywhere, and the regular protests outside the mosque following Friday prayer - Jordan is a Muslim country and their worship day is Friday, and the weekend therefore Friday and Saturday. We had a look at the ancient Roman Theatre, and then up the hill to the colloseum to look at centuries of old ruins, and more interestingly for me, get a view from high up of the whole area. On the way we passed a guy in traditional dress loading his brightly decorated car, and when we looked his way he started talking to us in English, explaining how he was taking his brother to his wedding, and discussed what was happening, nice guy.
As I said, the plan was to have a relaxing day, so we spent the rest of the day hanging out on the first floor balcony of a cafe right in the madness of downtown - literally from about 3pm to 2am! It was great - just drinking tea, chatting, using the internet and most of all, watching the world go by below us. I have no idea how that time disappeared so fast. The only interruption was to go to a nearby locals restaurant for the typical Middle Eastern staple of Falafel, flatbread, hummus and salad - delicious, filling and only a couple of quid including a tea. The tea itself here is served very sweet, and usually with a few mint leaves on top.
The second day was similar - slow start, some reading, and a wander with Malte around the Rainbow Street district, which is a more affluent and familar looking area. We couldn't help ourselves and mid afternoon went back to the cafe again for more of the same, and later met Malte's friend Mousa - a very interesting guy. He's from Comoros originally - a tiny island off the coast of Africa (here), has lived for many years in France, and is now in Amman to study to be a diplomat, and also help setup the Comoros embassy where he'll be working as the Chancellor (chief secretary). Here followed a very bizarre evening.
After the sun had set, Mousa suggested we go and have a look at the mall. Malte and were a little hesitant since all malls look the same - white and boring, but we went with it anyway. We took the bus a few miles to the edge of town then got off in the outskirts. Mousa then walked us a couple of miles around a neighbourhood and showed me where the bus station was ready for the next day. He then asked if we wanted to get a taxi to the mall or walk. Assuming it was not far we said walk. And did we walk.
About five miles all over the place, through middle class suburban areas, along dual carriageways, then past a showhome - Mousa then asked the guy if we could look around, and the guy gave us the full tour around a half million pound flat! We continued on our way, wondering just how far it was going to be, until he sighted the American Embassy and said not long now. The embassy was a huge fenced and well-secured complex, surrounded by guards, and on each corner a pickup truck with a machine gun on the roof with a soldier standing behind - not intimidating at all! We kept going and eventually got to the mall, which turned out to be very grand and opulant, and I could see why he brought us - it was a total contrast to the downtown area which is poor and chaotic. Mousa then bought us the local version of chicken kebab and chips, a drink in a palace-like supermarket, then the taxi ride home - a really nice and friendly guy.
The next day I was to be staying in Amman, but heading on a day trip to a certain extra salty sea...
My flight arrived near Amman late afternoon last Thursday, having to then take a bus to the station on the other side of the capital, then a taxi back to the hostel which I'd never have found if it were't for the driver - the start of my challenges with the often chaotic and indirect public transport system here. The taxi ride was my first proper experience of Jordan - lots of mad overtaking, roads that often don't have white lines, weaving in and out of cars, and a whole lot of beeping - they will beep for literally anything.
Jordan isn't a country that people necessarily think of visiting - after all, it's surrounded by Syria, Iraq, Israel and Eqypt, but believe it or not Jordan itself is very safe and has been for a long time. I think the idea came into my mind on holiday in Turkey a few years ago when I met a lady who was heading here and told me all about it. It's not a huge country by area and most of it is desert, but as you'll see in the coming blogs, there are some really good reasons to visit. It's also currently has perfect weather - despite nearly being winter, it's about 22 degrees with clear skies most days - perfect.
---
After a very busy few days in Germany, I'd decided to spend a couple of days taking it a bit easier, especially as there wasn't many real sights to see anyway. I've realised that I've spent a lot of time of late doing stuff and seeing things, but neglected the other side of travelling a little - hanging out, relaxing, chatting, reading and generally soaking things up. Fortunately straight away in the hostel I met Malte (pictured with dreadlocks) who I thereafter spent pretty much all my time in Amman hanging out with - a German guy who's staying in Jordan for a few months to improve his skills in speaking Arabic and has been here for a few days so knows where everything is.
 |
| This guy was off to his brother's wedding but found time to stop & chat |
As I said, the plan was to have a relaxing day, so we spent the rest of the day hanging out on the first floor balcony of a cafe right in the madness of downtown - literally from about 3pm to 2am! It was great - just drinking tea, chatting, using the internet and most of all, watching the world go by below us. I have no idea how that time disappeared so fast. The only interruption was to go to a nearby locals restaurant for the typical Middle Eastern staple of Falafel, flatbread, hummus and salad - delicious, filling and only a couple of quid including a tea. The tea itself here is served very sweet, and usually with a few mint leaves on top.
The second day was similar - slow start, some reading, and a wander with Malte around the Rainbow Street district, which is a more affluent and familar looking area. We couldn't help ourselves and mid afternoon went back to the cafe again for more of the same, and later met Malte's friend Mousa - a very interesting guy. He's from Comoros originally - a tiny island off the coast of Africa (here), has lived for many years in France, and is now in Amman to study to be a diplomat, and also help setup the Comoros embassy where he'll be working as the Chancellor (chief secretary). Here followed a very bizarre evening.
---
After the sun had set, Mousa suggested we go and have a look at the mall. Malte and were a little hesitant since all malls look the same - white and boring, but we went with it anyway. We took the bus a few miles to the edge of town then got off in the outskirts. Mousa then walked us a couple of miles around a neighbourhood and showed me where the bus station was ready for the next day. He then asked if we wanted to get a taxi to the mall or walk. Assuming it was not far we said walk. And did we walk. About five miles all over the place, through middle class suburban areas, along dual carriageways, then past a showhome - Mousa then asked the guy if we could look around, and the guy gave us the full tour around a half million pound flat! We continued on our way, wondering just how far it was going to be, until he sighted the American Embassy and said not long now. The embassy was a huge fenced and well-secured complex, surrounded by guards, and on each corner a pickup truck with a machine gun on the roof with a soldier standing behind - not intimidating at all! We kept going and eventually got to the mall, which turned out to be very grand and opulant, and I could see why he brought us - it was a total contrast to the downtown area which is poor and chaotic. Mousa then bought us the local version of chicken kebab and chips, a drink in a palace-like supermarket, then the taxi ride home - a really nice and friendly guy.
The next day I was to be staying in Amman, but heading on a day trip to a certain extra salty sea...
Roman Theatre
Colloseum
Typical street signs
The mall
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