Kuching, Borneo Malaysia (map)
Borneo is an island - the third largest in the world - and divided between Malaysia and Indonesia. It's a place that's been in my mind ever since I was fifteen, reading a feature in Mountain Biking UK magazine about Steve Peat and Hans Rey - two of the top riders at the time - exploring by bike in the jungles. I remember how exotic, how wild, how adventurous the place looked, and the back of my mind it's stayed ever since as somewhere I must see one day. Until now.
Flying from Singapore, I looked out the plane window as we started to descend and smiled, seeing first sight of the lush green jungle and mountains I'd dreamed of; what a view. Soon there was another reason to smile since I was on a Air Malaysia flight that did actually reach its destination, always pleasing. I'd decided to head to the Malaysian part of Borneo first which is more developed than the Indonesian side, and thus allowing me a little while longer in normality before I head to Indonesia. First stop from the airport was into Kuching - the biggest city in Borneo and appealing if nothing else for the catchy name. Kuu-chiiinnng. In total contrast to the cities of India, it's very clean, green, well laid out and surprisingly relaxing given it's size and I ended up spending five days there.
Malaysia was a former British colony, in Borneo's case claimed in 1841 and released in 1963 and Kuching the main city in Borneo, so I found it very interested to see various colonial architecture from that era such as a courthouse, large post office, museum and ladies social club all built in a typically Victorian style. The British influence and history was quite prominent around town, as well as that of the Chinese.
Heading out for a walk the first day, I was still re-adjusting from India. I'd become that accustomed to it that it genuinely seemed strange that there were proper pavements, no beggars, no litter, no chaos, and none of the cars were beeping - a very welcome change. Another contrast to India was the weather - after months of pretty much nothing but sun, it was time for a spot of moisture - for the weather in Borneo is constantly humid and there's a thunderstorm most days somewhere nearby. And when it rains it doesn't do it by halves - thunder, lightening, and the heaviest rain I've seen in a very long time.
In this blog: arrival in Borneo, seeing some Orangutangs and exploring Kuching
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| The journey since July 2013 |
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| Nearly there |
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Flying from Singapore, I looked out the plane window as we started to descend and smiled, seeing first sight of the lush green jungle and mountains I'd dreamed of; what a view. Soon there was another reason to smile since I was on a Air Malaysia flight that did actually reach its destination, always pleasing. I'd decided to head to the Malaysian part of Borneo first which is more developed than the Indonesian side, and thus allowing me a little while longer in normality before I head to Indonesia. First stop from the airport was into Kuching - the biggest city in Borneo and appealing if nothing else for the catchy name. Kuu-chiiinnng. In total contrast to the cities of India, it's very clean, green, well laid out and surprisingly relaxing given it's size and I ended up spending five days there.
Malaysia was a former British colony, in Borneo's case claimed in 1841 and released in 1963 and Kuching the main city in Borneo, so I found it very interested to see various colonial architecture from that era such as a courthouse, large post office, museum and ladies social club all built in a typically Victorian style. The British influence and history was quite prominent around town, as well as that of the Chinese.
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Heading out for a walk the first day, I was still re-adjusting from India. I'd become that accustomed to it that it genuinely seemed strange that there were proper pavements, no beggars, no litter, no chaos, and none of the cars were beeping - a very welcome change. Another contrast to India was the weather - after months of pretty much nothing but sun, it was time for a spot of moisture - for the weather in Borneo is constantly humid and there's a thunderstorm most days somewhere nearby. And when it rains it doesn't do it by halves - thunder, lightening, and the heaviest rain I've seen in a very long time.
Travellers Hub
I had no idea how popular Borneo would be for backpackers but soon found it to be brilliant, with many around it was easy to meet a good number of like minded folks, mostly at the hostel I stayed at - quite refreshing after India where I was surprised to meet relatively few most of the time. There was no bus from the airport into town, so after a bit of waiting and asking around I managed to share a taxi into town with some other travellers including a German guy called Christian, and from then on we ended up hanging out for the next week. We'd both travelled to similar countries before, both worked in design, and I spent a few days in his hometown last year so we had quite a bit to talk about, and we also grouped up with three other guys at the hostel from Belgium, Germany and Canada. There was never a shortage of yarns and laughs, often til late at night on the rooftop of the hostel.
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Bits and Pieces
My time in Kuching was a bit fragmented - there was no complete day where I managed to just relax and look about, what with a half day at the Post Office then writing, a day at the Indonesian Embassy getting a visa, half a day on buses and boats, and half a day of reading and planning the journey ahead.
It wasn't all dull though, as the other part days I managed to have a good look around this pleasant little city, seeing a Chinese temple, Indian Mosque, and relaxing waterfront area, as well as the colonial buildings I mentioned - a really interesting mix. Another afternoon I took in the city history, art, ethnology and natural science museums, which had some great exhibits on traditional long houses, mammals of Borneo, and colonial history. All very civilised I must say.
Along with Rene and Christian I managed to catch a film at the local cinema one night - Sabotage starring Arnie himself, a bonus of English being widely spoken in Malaysia, and I even went to a planetarium one day - something I've not done since primary school. It was sad to find their projector was broken effectively rendering the building useless, with the Malaysian government not forking out to repair it. They make do instead with just showing short films which are projected onto the domed roof which was a surprisingly good substitute, the graphics at one point were so trippy it was as if I'd taken some sort of hallucinogenic drug.
Orangutans
My time in Kuching was a bit fragmented - there was no complete day where I managed to just relax and look about, what with a half day at the Post Office then writing, a day at the Indonesian Embassy getting a visa, half a day on buses and boats, and half a day of reading and planning the journey ahead.
It wasn't all dull though, as the other part days I managed to have a good look around this pleasant little city, seeing a Chinese temple, Indian Mosque, and relaxing waterfront area, as well as the colonial buildings I mentioned - a really interesting mix. Another afternoon I took in the city history, art, ethnology and natural science museums, which had some great exhibits on traditional long houses, mammals of Borneo, and colonial history. All very civilised I must say.
Along with Rene and Christian I managed to catch a film at the local cinema one night - Sabotage starring Arnie himself, a bonus of English being widely spoken in Malaysia, and I even went to a planetarium one day - something I've not done since primary school. It was sad to find their projector was broken effectively rendering the building useless, with the Malaysian government not forking out to repair it. They make do instead with just showing short films which are projected onto the domed roof which was a surprisingly good substitute, the graphics at one point were so trippy it was as if I'd taken some sort of hallucinogenic drug.
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Orangutans
Borneo is known for it's orangutangs and whilst I hope to see them in the wild at some point, the opportunity to see be pretty much guaranteed to see some semi-wild brutes up-close was too good to miss, so I headed on a little day trip to to Semengok Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre. On the local bus I got chatting to a nice Italian girl called Ambre who's been working and travelling abroad for three years now, and we spent the day hanging out together thereafter. The orangutans are fed a couple of times a day and we arrived for the afternoon feeding, held on a wooden platform in the forest.
Seeing two adults and a baby for the first time was a amazing experience - nothing can prepare you for the sight of these majestic and powerful animals swinging along ropes with such ease, or hanging effortlessly whilst eating. Their legs may be weak, but they have amazingly strong arms - up to eight times more than a human. At one point a female impressively picked up a coconut, smashed it against a tree, then quickly drank the water that poured from it - all done in such a humanlike manner since they're one of the closest primates to us. The centre also housed a couple of Esturine crocodiles in cages for people to see in case the orangutans decide not to show up - whilst I've seen crocs before, I'd never had the opportunity to be less than a foot away from them behind some concrete and steel, and it was a powerful experience. After a beer and some food in Kuching with Ambre that evening, it was time for yet another travellers goodbye, before I headed out into the real Borneo with the gang from the hostel.
Seeing two adults and a baby for the first time was a amazing experience - nothing can prepare you for the sight of these majestic and powerful animals swinging along ropes with such ease, or hanging effortlessly whilst eating. Their legs may be weak, but they have amazingly strong arms - up to eight times more than a human. At one point a female impressively picked up a coconut, smashed it against a tree, then quickly drank the water that poured from it - all done in such a humanlike manner since they're one of the closest primates to us. The centre also housed a couple of Esturine crocodiles in cages for people to see in case the orangutans decide not to show up - whilst I've seen crocs before, I'd never had the opportunity to be less than a foot away from them behind some concrete and steel, and it was a powerful experience. After a beer and some food in Kuching with Ambre that evening, it was time for yet another travellers goodbye, before I headed out into the real Borneo with the gang from the hostel.
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| With German Christian (centre) and French-Canadian Rene (right) |
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| Original Victorian styled city museum |
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| Chinese Temple |
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| Kuching government offices |
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| Chinatown |
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| British colonial building |
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| City park |
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| Waterfront area |
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